Freud Diablo question

Hello all,
I picked up a 10" 80 tooth Freud Diablo blade for my table saw this weekend, and I noticed that when I turn it on, the blade wobbles a bit right at the start and when slowing down, but seems pretty solid when the saw is running at speed. This is a "narrow-kerf" blade, so I'm guessing that the wobble is due to the thinner material used in manufacturing (unless the carbide is the only thing that is thinner?) I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem, and if so, does a blade stabilizer help, or is there something odd going on with my saw? It is pretty cold down in the shop right now, and it is possible that the belt is getting stiff, but the Delta blade that I had in there before never had this problem. At any rate, the cuts the thing makes are absolutely beautiful, so I was planning on nabbing another one for my miter saw, and it'd be good to know if I'm going to need a stabilizer for each of them in advance so I can save myself extra trips to the hardware store!
TIA
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I have the same blade. Mine doesn't wobble. I have a 24 tooth Diablo also; it doesn't wobble either.
Beyond that, I don't know what to tell you; sorry.
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I have the same blade. Never saw any wobble with 1 1/2 HP starting it and don't use a stabilizer. Yes, it does make nice cuts. Ed
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Blades should NOT "wobble" at anypoint when the saw is running (unless it is a wobble dado set)
Take it back and get a good one, that one is defective if this does not happen with the original blade or any other blades on that saw.
Would not hurt to make sure the arbor flange is CLEAN, as that can thru the blade out of true as well
John
wrote:

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FWIW, Prior to carbide tipped blades, the blades were made with a bit of set in the blade that would wobble at slow speeds but when up to speed would run true.
-- Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
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Really, I have 2 Forrest reg kerf blades and both wobble at start up and shut down. They cut ,,,perfectly. This is not unusual at all.
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It is possible to tighten the arbor nut too tight against the blade, These blades are very thin and you can distort the plate,. I once did this to a Forrest blade. Couldn't figure out why it was wobbling. Loosen the nut and it stopped wobbling. Remember that the lock nut is left hand thread and will get a little tighter when spinning, it won't come off. max

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In addition to what Max said you might try loosening the arbor nut, rotate the blade 90 degrees, retighten the arbor nut (but don't overtighten) and try again. If this doesn't work, repeat the process by loosening, rotating 90 degrees and re-tighten until you find a spot where it won't wobble.

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I suspect you got it in one there... I torqued the sucker down thinking that the last thing I needed was a loose blade flying at me or sitting there while the arbor spun halfway through a cut- and didn't even consider whether or not that could affect the geometry of the blade. Thanks for the help! (and thanks to all the other folks who responded as well)

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Snip
Remember that the lock nut is left hand thread and will

Maybe it is left hand thread. If he has a left tilt the threads are probably right hand. Regardless the nuts always loosen in the same direction that the blade spins when cutting.
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Two possibilities: 1) the arbor bearing of your saw is worn and has some play that manifests itself when starting and stopping, or 2) the blade is warped. You should check the arbor for excessive play or runout and if it is OK, check the blade for straightness. You'll find procedures for this in most tablesaw tuneup articles.
If it is the blade and you bought it new, you should return it. If you picked it up used, that might be the reason it was available. Contact Freud to see if they can straighten it. I know Forrest straightens blades...even those manufactured by others.

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I do not own a 80 tooth but I have looked them over trying to decide between that blade or the 100 tooth oldham blade. If you look close you'll find the laser cuts go beyond the center of mass so I think the stabilizers would affect the anti vibration mechanism. A little wobble that doesn't show up in the cut surface would not concern me, You might try a grade 8 flat washer on the nut side of the arbor between the jam jam washer and blade, (same as a small stabilizer to make sure it is not as the others have mentioned about it being to tight. Good Luck...GJH.
Prometheus wrote:

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