I've had Freud's new box joint blade for almost 2 months now and have cut
box joints in poplar, oak, pine, and even baltic birch plywood with it.
I've been highly impressed with the quality of the cut...perfectly square
and clean with no chipout (it helps to use a new backer board each time you
change the cut depth or width to a shallower setting). This blade cuts
cleaner and squarer box joints than anything else that I've ever used, and
I've made a lot of box joints in my life. I've made them with both dado
blades (even Freud's dado blades) and router bits and never consistently
achieved cuts anywhere near as clean as this.
However, it is necessary to make a good box joint jig to use with it to get
really good results. The blade comes with instructions for making a box
joint fixture, but I wasn't very impressed with their design. The jig needs
to have micro adjustment capability built into it so that you can dial in
the exact position of the cut to get both the cuts and spaces between the
cuts to be exactly the same width, and this needs to be done each time that
you set up the fixture. You also need to understand that to get repeatable
spacing in your box joints requires the elimination of all side play in your
fixture, the saw table slide, and also in the placement of your boards when
you make each cut. I always work from left to right and always place my
boards against the left side of the fixture pin before making each cut. This
eliminates the possibility of any indexing variation that might be caused by
the width of the fixture pin. In fact the pin width is not important, only
the position of it's left side. By referencing the board against the left
side of the fixture pin each time I make a cut, and by carefully adjusting
the fixture so that my cuts and the resulting spaces between the cuts are
equal, I can get perfect box joints every time.
I have no connection with Freud. I'm just a very satisfied customer.
"JJ" < email@example.com> wrote in message
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