I was at Home Depot the other day and I saw this red Freud Diablo saw blade
that said "thin line rip" for $27. I thought, gee that's cheaper than what I
see on the internet and I could use a blade like that. The number on the
blade is D1024X.
The blade on the internet is a different model number and more expensive.
Freud has a confusing line of saw blades. What does Diablo stand for?
I have a Powermatic 66 table saw. I buy my oak and cherry planed to
thickness because I don't have a planer or jointer. I use my table saw
mostly for ripping. I want a saw blade that will give me a good glue line.
I use a radial arm saw and miter saw for other operations.
Should I take this blade back and buy something else?
A good quality yet inexpensive dedicated rip blade is a good thing to have but
the combo blade is probably going to spend the most time in the TS so spend the
serious dough on the combo. Diablos are good enough blades and serve the
purpose but the rip won't be of much use on the RAS or miter saw.
I use Diablos and have no problems with them. The advantage of a thin kerf
blade is to extend the motor life of an under powered saw, which is not an issue
with a 66.
On Thu, 1 Jul 2004 08:55:18 -0700, altoonaPillarRock
Try it. I might work on your setup. It's a cheap mistake. At worse,
you have a decent blade for rough work.
Diablo blades are "Thin-kerf Contractor" grade. Carbide is a good bit
thinner than on their Freud labeled blades. Thinner carbide means fewer
resharpenings, but it's often cheaper to replace cheap blades than to
Thin kerf blades are nice on lower-powered saws, but they aren't as
stable as standard kerf blades, so they USUALLY cut rougher.
Your PM saw will probably spin a full-kerf blade. IIRC, Forrest WWI is
a dedicated rip blade. Freud also sells full-kerf "Glue line Rip" in
their more expensive line.
I have a Diablo blade in my CMS most of the time, as it's mostly used
for construction-grade work on green or PT wood.
Besides imposing less strain on the saw motor, thin-kerf blades waste less
wood. If you are cutting big pieces of inexpensive material, thick kerfs
are not a problem. However, if you are ripping 1/2"-wide strips (which I
do sometimes), a 1/8" kerf is wasting 20% of your wood! At $4/bf +/- for
hard maple, that makes me pay attention!
I don't know about the Diablo blade, but you noticed that the model numbers
were different between Home Despot and the web. It's not uncommon for
manufacturers to make a "special" model for clients who buy a lot of their
product, thus you might find an item at Home Despot which is apparently
identical to one at Lowe's, but they different model numbers. I believe
this is to reduce price-guarantee claims. You might go to Home Despot and
say "I saw the same one at Lowe's for less!", but HD would say, "Diff'rent
model numbers, different items. No Deal".
"If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
So umm, for every 16 rips you gain another piece providing you end up with a
full 1/2" piece that is usable.
And assuming you are talking about the waste between 1/2" strips with a
regular kerf blade, a thin kerf will waste 15% of your wood. The difference
is 5%. I'll take the extre 5% extra waste any time to not have to deal with
a thin kerf blade. Saving 1/32" on every cut does add up but normally it it
does not factor in.
On Thu, 1 Jul 2004 21:25:13 -0700, "altoonaPillarRock"
there's nothing wrong with putting a $27 blade on a $2000 saw.
Don't expect it to cut like a $100 blade. OTOH, if you're cuting some
questionable material (hey, we all do it from time to time...) risking
a $27 blade is better than risking a $100 blade....
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