I just finished my first woodworking project after several years away
from woodworking.. It's a goban for the game of Go, it's very simple,
it's 3 peices of basswood laminated to be 17" x 18". I sanded this
with several grits, up to 400.. this may be overdoing it but the
cutting and laminating was so easy that I figured I should put some
effort into sanding. On the surface of this game board, I have put a
thin layer of SC Johnson Paste Wax and buffed it as well as I could,
the result was a very smooth top which I'm quite pleased with. On top
of the waxed layer, I drew the game board lines with a technical pen
using india ink from Koh-I-Noor. Now I'm at a loss for how to protect
this thing with one last coat.. In my test peices I tried covering the
lines with a second coat of paste wax but it tends to make the ink
smear.. probably due to the chemicals in the paste wax.. Does anyone
know how I might get a final layer of finish that will protect the ink
lines from wear and tear, and what kind of finish I should try on this
board? I need something that will not have an adverse affect on the
wax and ink I already have down. If you needed to put ink lines
(without the ink bleeding into the wood) on a board like this, how
would you do it? (I'm curious if anyone has some tricks or thoughts on
other ways to finish a board)
Thanks to all who can lend a hand!
On 28 Nov 2004 21:13:08 -0800, email@example.com (revgum) wrote:
Do some searching - couple of threads on goban a month or so back.
I don't know a "technical pen" (tube nib?) that uses indian ink. Real
indian ink contains shellac and is pretty stable once dry. Much
"indian ink" in this type of pen might be a stable pigment, but it
doesn't contain the shellac, so as to avoid blocking the nib. A
pre-war draughtsman's "bow pen" will let you use real indian ink.
However Japanese ink is notoriously unstable, so there are solutions
anyway. One is to not wax the board after inking it, just letting it
build up a natural patina. This needs better sanding than 400 grit
though - for lime (basswood) then it will burnish pretty well with
either dried horsetail reeds, dogfish skin (rawhide, not tanned) or 3M
plastic abrasive pads (a bit easier to obtain).
You could also use a wax finish over the ink. Most commercial waxes
will have a fairly harsh solvent like toluene or xylene in them, and
that's a great ink lifter. If you make your own though (or buy it)
and just use natural turpentine as a solvent, then you should have no
ink trouble. I've posted recipes here before (seach for "carnauba").
I don't think lime would need a hard wax here, so plain beeswax and
turpentine should do it. Don't use a "creamed" wax polish over your
ink though, as it contains ammonia and that might also distrub the
Traditionally an inked sword blade was used, which I haven't tried
yet. They didn't use lime either, which will help with some bleeding.
The usual fix for this is to make two narrow-spaced knife cuts and
only ink between them.
My goban are done with black epoxy inlay. I used to like them, but now
I feel shamefully modernistic.
I used a couple coats of oil finish over the lines on the goban I made - but I
didn't use wax underneath. In any case, try out your intended topcoat on a test
piece with the same finishes/ink you used for your real piece.
Thanks for the comments and recommendations.. I went ahead and sanded
off the previous finish and ink (what a mess!!). This time my base
coat is a very thin layer of polyurethane which I'll apply the lines
to and probably give it one more thin layer of polyurethane on top of,
followed by a finish coat of wax. The first coat of polyurethane is on
and dry and it's looking good so far. If anyone is interested, I'll
post a URL to a pictorial when this thing is done.
firstname.lastname@example.org (revgum) wrote in message
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