Most pro framers, I have seen do not use compressed air, they swing a hammer. Try carrying a nailgun up into a framed roof rafter assembly while hanging on to the last truss member you hammered in to get at the next piece. A hammer and puch full of nails makes an easier climb and the nials are removable for a few eeks until they rust or set into the wood.
For 15 years?
Dragging an air hose beats swinging a hammer, though.
Maybe the USanians have standardized on Roberts head sizes, since the patent timed out?...LOL
I d>>> Do you think the batteries will be good enough when you resurrect those >> old
I see the Cadillac way of making a deck...
- Autofeed stand up Screw gun
Dewalt 18XRP is the drill that I have, I love it and use it a lot. I have two batteries for it, but for continuous use I get out my electric drill.
i
Not arguing here, but in my experience nails popping out is generally due to under-engineering in the manners of: movement caused by too much space between joists, and nails too short.
I know there are other causes, but I've seen nails pop due to those causes.
I'm not buying anything you wrote in this post.
I have two 18V XRP drills, one a "compact" model (which isn't compact). I found one for less than $100 (less than the price of two batteries) on the get-it-outta-here table at HomeDespot. I also have the 6-1/2" circular saw, so six batteries. I don't use the drills often, though. I would much rather use the 12V Bosch and the Impactor. I'd break them out if I built a deck, though. ;-)
Maybe, but mine were 16" OC. The nails? For me, screws are easier in the long run.
Screws don't wreck the wood coming out, either.
They sure do around here. I think one house of six, built in the last year in my neighborhood, had a hammer on the property. They aren't too bothered scrambling around on the rafters.
I'm certainly not a pro, but I use Phillips, Robertson, and TORX/Star screws, in about the same numbers (prefer TORX, if I can find them). Bits for all of them are pretty common, even in the junk stores.
You don't change the technique, you change the DIRECTION. ;-)
Yep. I use a lot of oak for framing temporary sheds like in the photos. If I don't predrill the lag screws break off when I remove them later. I salvaged the oak beams from pallets for kitchen counter sheets and use them for rafters. The wood is almost as hard as 1980's Chinese cast iron.
jsw
Despite what others have been saying I have recently bought an air impact driver. Of course as with any tool you get the quality you pay for. Although as far as I know there are few really cheep quality air tools yet.
For me the advantages are clear
1) there are no batteries that will die if not used for a months and any way in about 3 years. 2) Smaller than any battery impact driver. 3) The air hose is far more flexible and longer than any corded driver. 4) The service life is much longer than any electric powered drill. 5) Over haul when eventually needed is it is easy and fast
Nonsense. Have you looked at a Bosch Impactor? Any smaller and it would be useless.
Again, nonsense. How long is a string?
Only because it needs it.
My Bosch drill is at least 7 years old, still on the original batteries. They no longer hold a charge as long as they did when they were new, but they're not dead yet either by any means. It's just in the last year that they've reached the point where I can deplete one battery in less time than it takes to recharge the spare. [...]
Agreed, that *is* nonsense. Electrical cords are *far* more flexible than any air hose I've ever seen. As for length... Jerome, have you ever heard of an extension cord?
You can buy a special chuck with a release for screws, but if it were me, I would go buy myself a impact driver. I have a Makita and it will drive a LOT of screws completely through a decking board.
A corded drill is still the best tool for continuous operations.
If you "really" want a clutched corded drill, these folks sell >
Yes, I just bought an impact driver and that would be my tool of choice. It takes a lot less juice to pound in a screw than with traditional drivers, so the batteries should last a good bit longer. No need to pre-drill either as far as power goes, but I probably still would to minimize splitting.
I haven't used mine yet other than to "test" it out and what really amazed me is I used it on some old, large slotted screws that I had laying around. I tossed most slotted screws I had because power drivers don't work well with them, but these were fairly large, so I kept them. The damned impact driver drove them in with no problem, no cam out like always happens with slotted screws...
I also have an air screw driver that will twist your arm off if you let it, but it is too slow for deck use. It was my favorite screw driver for years, but with the nice small and compact cordless thing-ees of today, the air driver lives in the bottom drawer...
At least you added, "for me." :-)
Plus, that compressor is a lot more portable than those little battery packs.
Not true. The new ones are pretty small.
Really? Do you use yours when it's full of air? I have a 100' extension cord that is waaaaay easier to use than a 100' air hose under pressure. Of course, we're talking extension cords/hoses, which are needed for both.
Again, really? I have a 20 year old hammer drill that's still cranking it out. It was even half submerged in water overnight.
I'll give you that. Some rings and seals and you're good as new.
D'oh! Wish I'd thought of that. :-)
We are getting away from what the original question is. I have not seen an air drill with a clutch only because they wouldn't be of much use. Air tools are specific in use not like electric which tries to cover many uses. So hence why they don't have a clutch because there are air impact drivers and air screwdrivers. I do agree that if air powered was better that you would see many more contractors using them (except nailers).
The question you have to ask yourself, is "Am I going to use it after the job is done?". If you don't have much other use for it beyond the scope of the deck, I wouldn't go that route. Then think about compressor capacity. Is your compressor capable of the scfm needed for the drill? Since it would be in use for longer durations, you need a compressor that is at least a 30 gallon or higher and able to deliver at least 8-9 scfm at 90 psi. Then if your compressor is smaller, it constantly has to play catch up and then it is running nonstop. It would be about the same as if you left your table saw running the entire time you were building the deck. Not very good on the electric bill.
I myself would go the cordless impact driver way since you said it is about 140 square feet. You said that your drill is about 7 years old. I would look at a drill/impact driver kit and keep your old one for the times you could use 2 drills. I doubt that you would find an impact driver kit that you could use the batteries on your old drill.
I have an air drill, It is nice for drilling wood because of the low torque and high rpm, but I would not try to drive screws with it.
Allen
Thanks for the thoughtful response, Allen. I believe that you and a few others have talked me into looking at a new cordless drill instead...
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