Not exactly, but he *did* say that he adjusts the board as needed after he sees where the cut starts:
"I ease the wood up to the blade and watch where the blade "begins to cut" in relation to the mark. If it is not where I want it, I simply move the board left or right and proceed with the cut."
While this is getting way too religious/fixated for further participation, I will say again what you left out of my quote ... it's damn hard to argue with Leon's results.
Perhaps there is an element of danger that goes along with talent? IIRC, Sam Maloof had a hard time, on more than one occasion, telling his fingers from the workpiece when using a bandsaw.
Then there's Roy ...
I wouldn't know -- I haven't seen his results, and that wasn't the subject of the thread anyway -- but I do know that I'm not going to ask him for safety tips.
but I do know that I'm not going to ask him for safety
You know Doug, originally you asked another poster why they would want to see the blade. I gave you "1" reason why I do. I was not really looking to get in to a pissing contest but simply to answer your question. I was not trying to call your method wrong. I was simply answering your question.
I would not dream of trying to give you any tips on safety nor was I in any way trying to convince you of a better way to do it. I was simply stating why I like to see the blade. This was the way I was taught in school 40 years ago. Call it old school, call it what you like. If you like the way you do things, fine. Please don't think that I really care one way or the other how you use your saw. Again, I was only giving you an answer to your question.
Ok to clarify, Do you ever have a slight bit of tear out on the back side of a cut that gets sanded off? I don't cut that much into the lead of the cut. I push the wood up until the blade, let me say this again, "begins" to cut the wood. Read that as when the blade touches the wood I stop pushing. The amount removed during that initial approach usually gets sanded off to ease the edge during finish sanding.
Well I certainly am not to be compared to Sam Maloof but I suspect that he and I have similar methods of making cuts. I had to chuckle the other day while watching Modern Masters on TV.. Sam Maloof was one of the artists being recognised. He was rounding over the edges of a 2" wide leg for one of his rockers with a large router. He was holding the router with only one hand while holding the leg with the other. He said that he had his share of scars from not having always done things in a more conventional way.
Yeah, and then there is Roy. I know that he will always be wearing a bandaid and hope that the bandaid is all he will ever need. ;~)
My blade guard has been off since the day it was first plugged in. Today I hooked it back up. I'll give it a trial for now, but I've already noticed scratching where the anti-kickback pawls (Craftsman 10" contractors saw ... all original except for the belt & blade) were dragging across the wood. I'm not too thrilled with that.
It is a crummy design when the cutoff is thin enough to fit underneath it. The liklihood that I will feel said cutoff before I even see it approaches certainty. BTDT numerous times.
BUT, I'll give it yet another trial.
If the Saw STop people want to make a metric ton of money, all they have to do is design a retro-fit for the Craftsman saws ... of which there are at least 2 zillion ... all still in use.
Bill
Right... and I'm pointing out for the benefit of the guy who asked the question originally that the reasoning behind your wanting to see the blade is faulty.
Keeping the blade uncovered so you can see it *does* increase the hazard (you even agreed with that) and it does *not* provide any advantages.
Some people just don't have the common sense God gave a stump.
I took the pawls off of mine on about day two, for exactly that reason.
And because they're unnecessary. With proper cutting technique, properly surfaced stock, *and* a splitter in place, kickback is extremely unlikely.
Not using the guard can increase the hazard. Correct, no one disputes that. that horse is dead.
There are advantages as I have indicated. If you cannot wrap you mind around that perhaps a coloring book would help.
BOY YOU can say that again.
The "advantages" you've indicated are purely illusory. There are in fact no advantages at all, and it's not *me* having trouble wrapping his mind around a simple concept. Statically aligning the pencil mark is every bit as accurate, perhaps even more so, than trying to align to a spinning blade -- as long as you pick the right tooth (which seems to be where you're having trouble).
It's faster, it's safer, and the only reason for not doing so is "I've never done it that way before."
Yep. IMO that includes people with a history of multiple table saw injuries who still haven't figured out that using a blade guard is a good idea.
LOL.... I sincerely hope you never actually start to post anything that is of any importance as I will miss it.
IOW... you know you lost the argument, but won't admit it... LOL
Want to do a pol? I doubt very many will be on your side. I came very close to doing the same thing to you as Leon did.
I frankly don't care if you, or Leon, or anyone else, killfiles me, and I'll be quite happy to debate with anyone the proposition that aligning pencil marks to a spinning saw blade somehow saves time or improves accuracy as compared to aligning the same marks with a single tooth when the blade is stopped.
Leon at least had enough sense to recognize that leaning over a spinning saw blade while sliding a board back and forth to align a pencil mark to the blade is less safe than making the alignment when the saw is not running -- but when I pointed out that he had completely failed to justify his frankly absurd contention that doing so saved time and improved accuracy, he got his panties in a wad, made a few snide remarks, and bailed on the discussion.
No great loss IMO.
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