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Blade Guard on a Table Saw?

I haven't used a blade guard for years, but was reading a book today on table saws that insisted to use them whenever possible.

Question: Do you use one? If not, why not?

Reply to
Samson
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No, gets in the way.

Reply to
CW

Is this a trick question? I don't use it for the same reasons you don't use it.

Reply to
Tim

I do, whenever possible. The reason is simple: the blade is inside the guard. If you keep your fingers outside the guard, they can't come in contact with the blade.

Reply to
Doug Miller

I use one with a splitter because it is safer than without. When cutting dados--no guard.

Reply to
Phisherman

I took mine off 25 years ago and left it off util a year and a half ago. Then I caught my the first finger of my left (non-dominant) hand in the blade. It was 95% off, just hanging by the skin and one small artery. After two hours in the operating room and six months of physiotherapy, it is now slightly functional. It goes up and down but it doesn't bend as the blade went through the PIP joint. My physiotherapist learned the word 'kerf'.

The blade guard has stayed on (except for dados) every since.

The pain in the finger is minor but ever-present. Cold weather bothers it a lot as the circulation is buggered up. Getting older is going to be a bitch as it will become seriously arthritic.

If you insist on keeping the blade guard off, move to a country with socialised medical system.

Nigel

Reply to
Nigel Burnett

I use mine (except for dados).

Reply to
brian_j_roth

I don't use a blade gaurd becuase they tend to get in the way and don't allow for free hand cuts because you can't see where your cutting. I given a lot of thaught to investing in a good gaurd though that was designed properly instead of a cheap piece of plastic that is shipped with the saw and the manufacterer knows your going to toss. I've learned the hard way twice. Once while ripping some oak the wood kicked back and sent my middle finger tip through the saw a few years later while working I had my sweet shirt get caught, I wasn't hurt but the only way to explain it is.

"I was leaning over the saw when someone "karate chopped" the back of my neck" the shirt got yanked hard and fast against my neck. The only reason I caught it was because it had happened to my uncle years earlier and this is how he discribed it. He was looking around the shop for some jocker, and didn't catch it until he stopped for a coffee.

Reply to
HotRod

No I do not, but should I decide that I should, I'll buy a SawStop instead.

Reply to
Leon

Yes, Uniguard. Also has a very good splitter

Frank

Reply to
Frank Boettcher

Reply to
Pat Barber

The main thing they "get in the way" of is sticking your fingers in the blade. I don't know about you, but I *like* anything that gets in the way of that.

Nobody with any good sense does freehand cuts on a table saw anyway. That's Table Saw Safety Rule Number One. It's *very* dangerous, just *begging* for a kickback or worse. Save the freehand stuff for the bandsaw or scrollsaw.

You should first give a lot of thought to learning how to use your saw safely.

And the cause of this was -- ? Were you doing a freehand cut, by any chance? Was there a splitter installed on the saw? I'll bet not -- since the factory blade guard on most saws is integral with the splitter, when you removed the guard, you *also* removed the single most important component in preventing kickbacks: the splitter.

I guess nobody ever taught either you or your uncle not to wear loose-fitting clothing while operating power tools. Or not to lean or reach over power tools while they're in operation.

Has it occurred to you yet that your shirt would not have come in contact with the blade if you hadn't removed the blade guard?

Reply to
Doug Miller

A guard is lot cheaper...

Reply to
Doug Miller

LOL, yes, much cheaper. But I like to see what's going on and I cut dado's on the TS and that was the only time so far that I have been injured using the TS.

Reply to
Leon

I don't. The saw I have didn't come with one. I got it used and the guard wasn't included.

I am however building an overhead guard for it. The guard I'm building is made of 3/8 lexan on an overhead mount, It'll be wide enough that I can also do dado's on it. For the plans just do a search on lexan blade gaurd in the rec. There are several sites with the instructions.

I had a close call and was lucky that's all it was... Was doing a series of cuts on several pieces, got too cozy with it and didn't shut off between cuts, in the process of moving back across the blade the wood brushed the blade.... ZING!!!! I did a quick inventory, got to ten and decided a guard might be a good idea.

Reply to
bremen68

That had most of the earmarks of a David Eisan type, joke troll.

Reply to
Swingman

A shop-made overhead guard, made of Lexan. I built mine following a woodcentral.com article, complete with a dust fitting.

My splitter is also shop made, consisting of a shop-made zero clearance insert with a glued in a white oak splitter. I have different versions for different blades.

Reply to
B A R R Y

Hi,

I try to use the guard/splitter/antikick back thing when I can. There are times such as when cutting dadoes when it does not work. I have practiced installing and removing the guard so that the process is relatively quick. Also I try to plan my cuts to minimize switching cut types. I do not have a guard on my cutoff sled, mostly, because I have not figured out a good design, that would not get it the way of my product runs of 100 identical pieces.

With that said, my biggest safety feature has been the constant training of myself to put my full attention on the saw if the blade is spinning. If there is a distraction or I feel even a bit dazed or tired, the saw gets turned off immediately. No "One more cut."

Thanks Roger Haar

******************************************************************************* Sams> I haven't used a blade guard for years, but was reading a book
Reply to
Roger Haar

I use my overhead guard pretty much all the time and I still wait for the blade to stop before I reach for things.

As for your particular situation, I had an incomplete amputation of my right forearm many years ago in a plane crash... lost about 2" off each bone that had to be regrown. Some nerves ultimately reconnected; others didn't. Luckily my injury wasn't right through the joint as yours was but rather was midshaft. Some encouraging words: the "barometric" effect you feel now gets much better with time. In fact, everything gets better with time, except arthritis. That you'll have to live with. At some point in the future if it becomes debilitating you might consider letting them fuse your finger joint. But give it time, because what you live with today will probably be much different in 5 years. I no longer have any trouble out of my arm; my hand just doesn't supinate (rotate as if to cup). But I have no pain.

Reply to
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

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