Any 240v woodworking equipment need a neutral?

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But if code doesn't require it and it isn't connected to anything... What on earth is home-brew about it?
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"But if code doesn't require it and "
CODES DO REQUIRE IT. Call your County Electrical Inspector. Or, better yet, google National Fire & Electrical Codes or similar)

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wrote:

Code DOES NOT require a neutral supplying a pure 240V load.
If you think it does... cite the relevant article.
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Cite a code section. If my county had inspectors, which they don't, what would I ask? "Uh, I have a circuit that doesn't need a neutral; in fact, I don't even have anything to attach it to. Do I need a neutral?" I presume they would tell me that if I don't need a neutral, I don't need a neutral.
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"Toller" wrote in message

a
Don't believe it ... a neutral is NOT required for the 220/240 equipment circuit that you are originally asking about.
However, do be VERY careful about colors ... when what is normally the neutral, (white) wire in the 10/2 w/G you mentioned, is used as one of the two current carrying wires in a 220/240 circuit, it should be taped/marked on BOTH ends, usually with black tape, to clearly indicate that is carrying current and is NOT a "neutral".
This is important, _is_ a violation of code if not done ... and may be a source of the confusion.
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So here's a question for any electrical inspectors that may be listening in: Code requires that any wire so marked must be "permanently reidentified....by painting or other effective means". Is taping "permanent" or "effective" enough? I usually use a permanent marker.
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Toller, If it's only a 240v motor the 10-2 is correct. Let us know what machine you are trying to connect. Are you connecting to a main panel or a sub panel?
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On Mon, 11 Dec 2006 19:48:21 GMT, resrfglc wrote:

Please cite NEC where it says neutral is required for 220/240V devices.
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Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net
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"Toller" wrote in message

without
Hush now, and be a good wooddorker ... we're in the presence of superior insurance/electrical dorkiness.
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Chill out, Swingman. This may be a first -- me *defending* Toller's point of view on an electrical issue -- but he's on perfectly solid ground here, and "resrfglc" is out to lunch.
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Hey, you got something completely wrong a couple months ago, and I didn't say a word.
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"Toller" wrote in message

point
Who said that??
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resrfglc wrote:

If you've got 240V equipment with no 120V accessories, then there's no reason to have a neutral.
For a pure 240V load you have two hots and a grounding conductor (aka "ground"). No neutral is needed or required by code.
The only time you need a grounded conductor (aka "neutral") is when you have unbalanced loads on the two hots. This is only the case if you have a mix of 120/240V devices on that circuit.
Chris
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wrote:

This comes up about once a month, it seems, in alt.home.repair. So far, nobody has been able to substantiate an instance of this actually happening. Maybe you can be the first.
In any event, what he's proposing to do isn't hazardous in the least.

He doesn't *need* a neutral for a 240V motor.

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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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wrote:

Not true.

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a
Bullshit.
There is not "missing neutral". You need to quit giving advice on things you don't know.
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-Mike-
snipped-for-privacy@alltel.net
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Oh, yeah, and I'm sure the insurance companies refuse to pay when you've plugged too many devices into your extension cord, like you promised you wouldn't too.
I've read and re-read my homeowners policy and while some of the fine print is quite "amusing", damn if I can find that clause about not paying if the wiring is not up to code.
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If there are no 120 accessory items on the machine.
However, as one who is at this very moment lamenting the fact that he did not plan ahead and pull what he should have pulled when he originally built his shop, and now to expand it will have to pull again, knowing it would have been just as easy and not much more cost to pull more than one would need, my advice in that area should be predictable (as I slap my head in dismay).
But:
You do not need a grounded conductor if you do not have any requirement for it on the machine.
You DO need a grounding conductor. You're health and well being might require it. Additionally, you will negate the work of that fine individual(s) at the end of the assembly line who painstakenly checked each and every machine for complete ground continuity before it was shipped to you.
In my area, the only requirement for a licensed electrician is at a service entrance set, and no permit is required to run a circuit inside your house.
I don't know about your insurance policy, but mine does not have a clause where I promise to hire an electrician, disallowing the policy if I don't.
Frank
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"clause where I promise to hire an electrician"
No, its not likely to be so clearly identifiable in the small print. But they are rife with exculpation clauses. So is your mortgage agreement. Basically, they are not insuring against your failure to do things properly, follow the codes, etc.
I'll bet you have never read your insurance policy or mortgage agreement all the way through. Not being a smart-ass here, but trying to make thepoint that it is best to build in right and bulletproof the first time out for a number of reasons not necessarily limited to insurance, liability and so forth,
Let's leave it at: "If your house burned down as a result of an electrical fire, would call you all the insurer and advise that you had installed the suspected circuit?"
wrote:

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Yup - and I would be perfectly comfortable having them or any other inspector look at it. Unlike you, some of us actually know what we are doing with electricity.
--

-Mike-
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