Any 240v woodworking equipment need a neutral?

Don't skimp. Do it "Right" the first time. Use 10/3 with ground and be safe; safer; ready for change, not sorry.

Also, the circuit can be used to pull a 110/120 outlet as well.

Do it to "code" and you will not be sorry.

I know the cost of wire is nuts nowadays, but the old rule "do it right the first time" has proven itself may times over to be the best advice.

Reply to
resrfglc
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One other point: Insurance.

If there's a fire, etc. and the investigation uncovers your home-brew cost-saving electrical work, your insurance company can simply deny your claim because you promised them you would never install electrical without a permit, licensed contractor and appropriate inspections.

A missing neutral would be hard to disguise!

Reply to
resrfglc

What if I don't have a jointer?

Reply to
B A R R Y

But if code doesn't require it and it isn't connected to anything... What on earth is home-brew about it?

Reply to
Toller

Really? In countries where the base voltage, how many wires do they have? I would think a hot, a grounded, and a grounding. What would a "neutral" be used for?

Reply to
Toller

No problem ... use one of those wrist thingy's, attach it next to your electronic ankle bracelet, and ground it to your computer.

We know damn well you have a computer!

Reply to
Swingman

Good point. We don't know what may be connected down the road, neitherdoes he. And, if the fire occurs to someone he sold the house to - guess who is liable for damages?

Reply to
resrfglc

Nope, not at all. Go price the wire.

One should always run the most robust line one can afford and that can carry the intended load and a bit more.

And one should always consider safety and follow Electrical Codes to the letter.

Reply to
resrfglc

Why not simply re-wire the bulb socket to attach one side to the neutral and run a 120VAC bulb?

Better than cursing the darkness, no?

Reply to
resrfglc

You are confusing physical and electrical "You only need 10/3 for something like a 4 prong dryer plug. " and practice with CODE.

The "GROUND (bare copper) is the mechanical ground. The White, neutral is the Electrical ground.

Remember, every electrical appliance or tool you purchase is designed and built upon the assumption that it will be powered up in an APPROVED MANNER that meets the Standard Electrical Code.

If you "fix" your wiring to do otherwise, none of the safety measures designed into the product may save your home or ass as intended.

And the manufacturer escapes all liability an your insurance is voided and your liability is (neighbor's house catches fire) is 100%.

For this you want to save $23.00?

Reply to
resrfglc

"Swingman" made this timely comment

Maybe if you serve up some of that famous family gumbo and a few cold brewski's, we will just mellow right out!!

Reply to
Lee Michaels

"But if code doesn't require it and "

CODES DO REQUIRE IT. Call your County Electrical Inspector. Or, better yet, google National Fire & Electrical Codes or similar)

Reply to
resrfglc

Hush now, and be a good wooddorker ... we're in the presence of superior insurance/electrical dorkiness.

Reply to
Swingman

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the time to check this expert web site for a definitive answer snipped-for-privacy@mikeholt.com for e-mail questions.

Reply to
resrfglc

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the time to check this expert web site for a definitive answer snipped-for-privacy@mikeholt.com for e-mail questions.

Reply to
resrfglc

Easy for you to say ... it's hard to be mellow when you don't smoke or drink beer any longer and you have to chop all those damn vegetables!

Reply to
Swingman

If you've got 240V equipment with no 120V accessories, then there's no reason to have a neutral.

For a pure 240V load you have two hots and a grounding conductor (aka "ground"). No neutral is needed or required by code.

The only time you need a grounded conductor (aka "neutral") is when you have unbalanced loads on the two hots. This is only the case if you have a mix of 120/240V devices on that circuit.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Friesen

Ground it to your planer sled.

Reply to
Doug Miller

This comes up about once a month, it seems, in alt.home.repair. So far, nobody has been able to substantiate an instance of this actually happening. Maybe you can be the first.

In any event, what he's proposing to do isn't hazardous in the least.

He doesn't *need* a neutral for a 240V motor.

Reply to
Doug Miller

Code DOES NOT require a neutral supplying a pure 240V load.

If you think it does... cite the relevant article.

Reply to
Doug Miller

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