Advice needed on drawer sliders

[jtpr]

I am in the final stages of building my kitchen island:

is a Sketchup file...

Anyway, I am doing the front of it today, creating the face frame. I will = have 4 drawers on top about 3" x 17" each, side by side. Then 2 very large= drawers below, on on top of the other about 36" by 9". The depth of the i= nside of the cabinet will be 20 1/2" or 21 3/4" depending on if I use 3/4" = ply to back up the face frame (don't know if I need to; another question). = My question is what to do for the drawer slides. I want full extension, p= referably the "soft closing" type, but I don't want to go broke. =20

This is my first piece of cabinetry, so any advice is appreciated

[krw]

4 drawers on top about 3" x 17" each, side by side. Then 2 very large drawers below, on on top of the other about 36" by 9". The depth of the inside of the cabinet will be 20 1/2" or 21 3/4" depending on if I use 3/4" ply to back up the face frame (don't know if I need to; another question). My question is what to do for the drawer slides. I want full extension, preferably the "soft closing" type, but I don't want to go broke.

How about these, for the top drawers? The sides are a little tall and metal might not be what you want but for the price you can throw away the drawer sides. Unfortunately there isn't a lot of detail with these.

This is my first piece of cabinetry, so any advice is appreciated Why is the bottom rear rail 1/2", rather than 3/4"? Mistake? Depending on how you do the panels, I don't think you need the 3/4" ply. If the rails and styles are structural, 1/4" ply should be enough. If they're just surface trim, yeah, I like 3/4" ply.

BTW, I like it a lot.

[krw]

have 4 drawers on top about 3" x 17" each, side by side. Then 2 very large drawers below, on on top of the other about 36" by 9". The depth of the inside of the cabinet will be 20 1/2" or 21 3/4" depending on if I use 3/4" ply to back up the face frame (don't know if I need to; another question). My question is what to do for the drawer slides. I want full extension, preferably the "soft closing" type, but I don't want to go broke.

[jtpr]

Nice catch on the 1/2", yes it was a mistake. The rails and stiles are all= birds-eye maple 3/4", backed by maple plywood. The front is the same. I = am using biscuits to join the two stiles to the legs, and pocket joinery fo= r the rails. But I may back the rails up with 3/4" ply and then join that = to the legs with pocket joinery just for strength and to pull it all togeth= er.

So you think under mount would be better then side mount? What does one us= ually attach the back of the slides to?

Jim

[Larry Jaques]

v7 won't open those.

My local hardwood dealer has inexpensive imports which are even less than these, but the KVs are nice:

or the 4800RV, with the "stay closed" feature. Soft-close will double your costs, at minimum. Oops, found some closeouts, but hurry! Sizes limited: This is my first piece of cabinetry, so any advice is appreciated Take your time and have fun.

-- If only he'd wash his neck, I'd wring it. -- John Sparrow

[krw]

Can you set your line length to 70 or so. Thanks.

I don't like biscuits at all. Your fronts have an extra style on the edges. I'd think that would weaken the joinery. Perhaps a M&T into the legs directly? If you did that on all four sides you could set 1/4" ply into rabbits in the frames or make them real panels.

I don't have a strong preference but side mounts require at least 1/2" between the drawer and the frame. Undermounts can sorta be hidden in the drawer- bottom recess. I think I'm going to use them for the router table I'm building because the 1/2" at the sides is too much.

The back. Just like with side-mount slides, there is usually some sort of adapter for face-frame cabinets.

BTW, I'm not a very experience woodworker either, so temper what I say with that in mind. ;-)

[jtpr]

Thank you all. This is a v7 version:

am using googles group to post, gave up my old Forte years ago, anyway, t= here is no setting I am aware of for limiting line width.

The rails on the back and sides are mortise and tenon. But I thought it wo= uld look weird on the front if I had the rails go all the way over and then= all these pieces for stiles, so I did the biscuit thing. I'm not a huge f= an, but I figure I will back it all up with 4 cross pieces of ply behind th= e maple and pocket join and glue those to the legs. I also plan on putting = a bottom in of either 3/4 ply or MDF to further strengthen it.

Gonna need 3 men and a small boy to move it, but what the hell.

[jtpr]

So, if I have 20 1/2" what size drawer slide do I get? How much play is there in these things?

[krw]

Other Google Groupies don't have that problem, so it is some setting you have wrong. Why in the world did you give up Agent for GG?

It does look a little strange with the front styles missing, but I think I'd do that anyway. The dresser in the room here has the rails going all the way to the corner post and it doesn't look bad.

3/4" ply on the bottom is fine, IMO. Nix the MDF. I don't mind MDF, really, but you have some really nice wood going into this thing. Don't cheapen it.

Yup. That's why I suggested making the sides and back into (un)raised panels. Then use 1/4" ply for the panels. That'll take out a lot of weight and leave it just as strong.

[krw]

in these things?

Depends on the slides. Look on the manufacturer's site for installation instructions. The Blum 21" slides require 21 3/4" on the inside, so they're out. I don't know what Rockler is selling because Blum doesn't show a 20" model. I just adjusted the cabinet I'm working on to accommodate the 21 3/4" slides. It's tight. ;-)

[Pat Barber]

These are the go to guys on the web for several years:

I am in the final stages of building my kitchen island:

have 4 drawers on top about 3" x 17" each, side by side. Then 2 very large drawers below, on on top of the other about 36" by 9". The depth of the inside of the cabinet will be 20 1/2" or 21 3/4" depending on if I use 3/4" ply to back up the face frame (don't know if I need to; another question). My question is what to do for the drawer slides. I want full extension, preferably the "soft closing" type, but I don't want to go broke.

[Pat Barber]

in these things?

[Leon]

is a Sketchup file...

Anyway, I am doing the front of it today, creating the face frame. I will have 4 drawers on top about 3" x 17" each, side by side. Then 2 very large drawers below, on on top of the other about 36" by 9". The depth of the inside of the cabinet will be 20 1/2" or 21 3/4" depending on if I use 3/4" ply to back up the face frame (don't know if I need to; another question). My question is what to do for the drawer slides. I want full extension, preferably the "soft closing" type, but I don't want to go broke.

This is my first piece of cabinetry, so any advice is appreciated

I cannot see or view the link.

If you are using a solid wood 3/4" face frame yo need no other front support.

Typically the undermount soft close drawer slides require the drawer to be a specific width and DEPTH. The drawer sets on top of the slide and a pin on the back of the slide hooks in to the back of the drawer. Clearance under the drawer bottom is also very critical as it must have clearance for the front latch to be mounted.

For simplicity the KV full extension soft/self close slides are reasonably priced and mount like most any other side mount full extension slide. Drawer depth front to back is not critical but normally the drawer must be

1" narrower than the opening.

[Leon]

No play at all for the under mount style slides. You build the drawer around the requirements of the specefic length slide.