AAaarhhggg! Glue problem.

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stoutman wrote:

Little trick from Michael Fortune - Waxalit (or it could be Waxilit) - available from Lee Valley. It's a wax like material with a consistency somewhere between valaline and a paste wax. Put it on with a Q-tip around the joints, glue pops right off when dry, get it off with alcohol on a Q-tip. A little goes a long way so get the small can.
charlie b
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restaining. If you try to restain over wood compressed by scraping, it still won't work, so 220 will help.
A bit of creative color mixing with artist color might blend them a bit.
I built that bed for/with my eldest, and we just mortised (new task - new tool) so we could go with tight tenons and a drop at the bottom. Any squeeze can be left, as others have said, until leathery. Scrape and then give the whole area a reveal wipe with mineral spirits to make _sure_ you're clear before final sanding and staining. Do this even if you try to mask.
Daughter now wants one, but I've got until the wedding in May to finish it.
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Try the less is more approach, many folks don't glue the slats. I personally would stay outta the tape business as what you're talking about would be as much a pain in the hiney as the glue. You may think about very minimal gorilla glue, I mean minimal! if there is any foam out it is easily cleaned up with a sharp chisel.
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1. In the future, you can wipe the project down with mineral spirits snd it will show all the glue spots before you stain. 2. In the future, don't follow Norm's advice (I rarely say that) and use a sponge or wet cloth like he does. Let the glue squeeze and about an hour later (depending on the weather), scrape it off witha chisel or scraper. 3. In your current situation, don't bother sanding. It's too ineffective in tight spots. Get an actuall scraper, sharpen that sucker up, burnish it, etc. and reomve peels until you hit fresh wood. Alternatively you can use a razor glue scraper or a crazy sharp chisel.
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SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Think snots.
When the glue gets to the consistency of snot, it's easily zipped off with the chisel or scraper.
Barry
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SonomaProducts.com wrote:

I'll second or third that one. Wiping the glue is a recipe for disaster IME. It just gets it way down deep into the wood and makes it almost impossible to clean up. This is evident at finishing time even if you don't stain, which, of course, I don't, being an official member of the Placating Larry Jacques Society. :)
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On Tue, 25 Jan 2005 11:55:07 -0500, the inscrutable Silvan

After all this time, Silvie, you still misspell my name. <sigh>
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Oh hell. Have you pointed that out to me before? If so, I probably missed it. I'm pretty anal about details like that, and I almost certainly would have remembered if I had noticed your mentioning it sooner.
Speaking of Placating Larry Jaques and Shellaques... I think it was Tom or Keith who said something about using shellac on cast iron. Maybe Charlie. Anyway, I painted the base of my DP with the stuff umpty moons ago, and I was just noticing the other day that it's still in perfect shape. Good way to use up stuff that's about to go bad. Might even be suitable for the DP table or such. Though probably not a TS top or other surface that sees a great deal of sliding.
(And yeah, I realize that even though I associate you in my own twisted mind as the guy who badgered me into trying shellac, you actually tout Waterlox, IIRC, as your finish of choice. I'm perfectly well aware of the irony Monsieur.)
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