I made a mission bed and inbetween the slats on the footboard and head board I have glue leakage. I applied my stain and I can see where the glue was in between the slats. I have spent the last few hours trying to scrape and sand in between the slats. How do you guys prevent this problem? Any suggestions?
Thanks
Some wipe off the excess when it's still wet using a wet cloth. This works, but can thin the glue and spread it around resulting it what you're seeing.
If possible, let the squeeze out set up to the point where it's almost, but not quite dry. Then you can scrape the "chunks" off using a sharp chisel.
Good luck Rob
David
stoutman wrote:
Found some 2" blue masking tape at big lots for 2.99 for 2 rolls-- works just like the 3M brand but is WAY cheaper. I'm going back for more tomorrow-- bet they're out.
1) use the right color of wood to start with. don't stain. 2) glaze instead of stain. put the color between coats of finish, not soaked into the wood.
Little trick from Michael Fortune - Waxalit (or it could be Waxilit)
- available from Lee Valley. It's a wax like material with a consistency somewhere between valaline and a paste wax. Put it on with a Q-tip around the joints, glue pops right off when dry, get it off with alcohol on a Q-tip. A little goes a long way so get the small can.
charlie b
What in your answer is going to help the OP? He didn't ask for your opinion about staining. Is there always "the right color of wood"? If so why have people been staining or otherwise coloring wood for centuries? If he decided to "glaze" or tone instead of staining the glue squeeze out would still be visible, would it not?
I believe the OP was asking about a solution for glue squeeze out- not a diatribe against staining. There isn't always "the right color of wood" hence the reason people have been staining or otherwise coloring wood for centuries. And even if he decided to "glaze", tone, etc. the glue squeeze out would still be visible. Not a lot of helpful information in your post to help the OP.
Frustrating, isn't it? Best I've found is a scrape and scratch, followed by restaining. If you try to restain over wood compressed by scraping, it still won't work, so 220 will help.
A bit of creative color mixing with artist color might blend them a bit.
I built that bed for/with my eldest, and we just mortised (new task - new tool) so we could go with tight tenons and a drop at the bottom. Any squeeze can be left, as others have said, until leathery. Scrape and then give the whole area a reveal wipe with mineral spirits to make _sure_ you're clear before final sanding and staining. Do this even if you try to mask.
Daughter now wants one, but I've got until the wedding in May to finish it.
Try the less is more approach, many folks don't glue the slats. I personally would stay outta the tape business as what you're talking about would be as much a pain in the hiney as the glue. You may think about very minimal gorilla glue, I mean minimal! if there is any foam out it is easily cleaned up with a sharp chisel.
Hmmm...last time I checked at the lumberyard they were all out of "Golden Oak" oak and "Revival" oak. Could you point me to a source for those particular "colors" of wood, my friend?
Imagine wooddorkers having the nerve to "soak" stain into their wood!
David
snipped-for-privacy@all.costs wrote:
see option (2)
glazing looks a lot better to my eye. stain absorbs unevenly, and usually it's the light grain that absorbs more, so the color reverses. just looks cheap and fake to me.
I assume you're talking to me.
as far as cleaning up his current situation, he's on the right track. scrape, sand, try to blend the stain.
most of the stains on the market are made to either fake up one wood to look like another or simulate the effects of age. what the hell is wrong with an honest piece of wood?
a little glue squeezeout- especially down in the wood rather than a glob on the surface- is a lot less visible under a glaze.
Y'know, both of those are designed to mimic the aged color of a couple of different kinds of oak. Now if he was going green....
If you knew better techniques, you wouldn't think that staining equals uneveness, even on blotch prone woods.
David
snipped-for-privacy@all.costs wrote:
:)
David
George wrote:
Think snots.
When the glue gets to the consistency of snot, it's easily zipped off with the chisel or scraper.
Barry
I'm not talking about blotch. I'm talking about the difference of absorption between late wood and early wood. one is generally harder, darker and less porous (can't remember which is which...). the lighter, more porous grain absorbs more stain and ends up darker. the result, to my eye is unnatural and unattractive. YMMV.
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