Removed wall tiles, now can I putty over glue?

Just skim the affected area with joint compound a couple of times,sand then paint at will....Have done it MANY times over the past 20+ years...Good luck....

when you say joint compound, do you mean the strong stuff like "Durabond 90" (designed to fix cracks). Or the weaker dry wall compound, that is mean for that finished surface? thanks.

Depends on how you intend to use it. If as a shower, in 5 hours you probably could have demo'd the plaster and installed "mortarboard".

Generally, the procedure is to re-tile over the wallboard/plaster transition, so cracking there isn't an issue.

If no shower, yeah, I think you could skim coat the old adhesive, but you'll probably want to ensure you feather that up above the old adhesive so there's no hard edge, but I wouldn't do it that way.

A "pro" restricted to a smaller budget would probably just apply the new adhesive proportionately thicker where the old adhesive has been removed to make a "more flat" wall.

The average nonprofessional, I think, is best served by creating the "least flawed" foundation for their tile, assuming of course that you intend to re-tile it, you didn't say. -----

- gpsman

These tiles are not in the bath tub area. I am not retiling the walls, just putting on primer and then paint. I just worried that the yellow adhesive might show through the paint or could compromise the paint durability. Do I need to scrape all of glue off, it I put a think coat of dry wall compound? thanks.

off, it I put

mm... not my area of expertise, but I would think a skim coat followed by a primer/sealer like Kilz would do the trick.

That old adhesive should be drier than a popcorn fart. -----

- gpsman

Ha, never heard that one before, I'll have to remember it.

My wife is constantly amazed at some of the stuff I pick up...

Ha, never heard that one before, I'll have to remember it.

My wife is constantly amazed at some of the stuff I pick up...

I write all my own material, except for what I steal. -----

- gpsman

It isn't in the "book" and it isn't the taught way of doing things so I can't tell you to do it, but I bet if you disregard the proper advice and skim coat the area with regular or a setting type sandable joint compound it will work just fine. Durobond is not sandable!

Take you time and feather it out nicely. I doubt very much that well aged glue will bleed through. Prime it with Kiltz or Bins if it does.

If you have never skim coated ask for directions. There are a couple of tricks to make it easier.