Just had timber sash and case windows installed. They came already painted with white undercoat.
Which is the best paint for a finish coat? Simple outdoor gloss? or is there something more specific for the job?
Would prefer something that will only require one coat, and that can be bought from B&Q as I am driving past it tomorrow and plan to paint in the evening.
TIA,
J.
On Thu, 7 Oct 2004 23:34:10 +0100, "JoeJoe" wrote: hi, i reccomend dulux wheathersheild gloss and undercoat for the outside this is a high quality long lasting finish, may as well do it with the good stuff as you have forked out on the wooden windows. this stuff is availible from dulux decorators centres (not sure about b&Q stocking it) and can be mixed to just about any colour required. bet those windows look great may as well keep them that way regards bob
Indeed, I've used Dulux WS on external woodwork and it has lasted well. Certainly it want's top be a microporous product. Alternatively look at stuff from Sadolin
B&Q and Homebase as well a decorators merchants etc. sell it. However, note that the Trade and 'consumer' versions are not the same. The Trade undercoat is not waterbased, though not a normal 'oil based' undercoat as it still dries in 2-4 hours, the trade version claims up to 8 years life while the consumer one is 6 years.
Yep. Liquid gloss they call it now I think.
Then you'll lose quality, as you will with non-drip, quick dry or any other "feature"
Recently done our windows with Sandtex outdoor gloss. A very nice finish... easy to apply and didn't mind too much being put on even with a bit of rain in the air.
What's the best tool to use to remove old flaking paint prior to re-painting? I'm thinking it'll take ages with a drill/sander thingy, and not be particularly easy to get into all the corners. And using a plain old wire brush just seems too tedious...
S.
Blowlamp and shavehook. A wire brush will roughen the surface.
Combination shave hook, blow lamp and stripping knife. Still tedious! t
A wire brush is great for getting flaking paint off metals, but if you use it on wood you'll accentuate the grain.
If there's no glass involved then it's hard to beat a blowlamp (or hot air blower - slower, but safer) and scraper, finished off with wet 'wet or dry' paper.
Or pick the flakes off with a sharp flat blade paint scraper then use 'wet or dry' paper and plenty of water to get a clean key for the next coat. You can use the paper on a cork block, on shaped pieces of wood or with your fingers in intricate mouldings. I've recently discovered that the 24 sheet packs from 'pound shops' can be surpringly economical - you get through them fast because the glue and paper quality is poor, but they cost far less for a given area. The only downside is the limited range of grit sizes: 60,
100 & 150 typicallyBoth wire brushes and 'wet or dry' paper can be used in power tools, but keep the surface horizontal if you use wet paper in an orbital sander!
Ah! Is there any d-i-y activity more satisfying than taking a roaring paraffin blowlamp to heavily painted timber?
Hi,
Anyone used paint stripper?
cheers, Pete.
| combination shave hook and wickes do a *sharpened* scraper which is quite good at getting underneath flaking paint, as I have just discovered this week as I am also repainting the front of my house, well the masonry bits anyway.
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