Sash windows.

[Jim K...]

That could be a "means of escape" window made to open out at the bottom...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Been fixing up some sash windows which are basically about 130 years old. Had a broken glass after what look like a bird it it - or bullet. ;-) And a sash cord.

So decided to replace all the sash cords at the same time, and with new parting and stop beads. So got the type that takes a nylon brush for best draught proofing. And wondered if anyone knows how long the brush is likely to last? It will hopefully stop any rattles too, in a wind.

[spuorgelgoog]

Not as long as the windows :-)

Can you buy spare brush strips and put them away for future use in case the profile becomes unavailable?

Owain

[Andy Bennet]

Make sure the top sash is the outer one, not like this fine example...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

It comes on a drum, and you fit it to the bead yourself. I got a 100 metre drum. ;-)

[Dave Plowman (News)]

;-) At least I got that right.

[Roger Mills]

I've got a lot of sash windows in my holiday flat, which is in a Grade II listed building - so little scope for double glazing.

I've replaced all my beads with the nylon brush type. They have improved noise and drafts to some extent, but not as much as I hoped.

I've also replaced the cord to sash attachments with these

which make it a doddle to remove and replace the sashes in future - e.g. for painting. Oh, and the staff beads are screwed rather than nailed on like the old ones - also facilitating easy removal.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I've also used screws for the staff beads. Couldn't think of a similar way to fix the parting beads, though.

[tabbypurr]

I've found pins make it easier & quicker to remove the beads than screws.

NT

[Dave Plowman (News)]

The snag with nails is one of the four sections has to be removed first. Once this is done, the other three are easy.

But if they are nailed, much more chance of damage to the paint than with screws.

[tabbypurr]

I've no idea what that means. I did try screws on sliding sashes but found it produced far more disruption of paint & difficulty in removal.

NT

[Roger Mills]

My parting beads don't use any fixings. They are an interference fit in their grooves, and have to be tapped in with a block of wood and a hammer.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

That may have been the case here 150 years ago. ;-) The old ones had long panel pins, though.

[Roger Mills]

Belt and braces! If you replace them with the furry type, you'll probably find that they're a tight enough fit without needing any pins.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

No - they are the same thickness as the ones they're replacing. Which weren't that old anyway. I drilled pilot holes through the new with a pillar drill to make using long panel pins easier.

[Roger Mills]

Fairy Nuff. Mine were pretty tight - and I had to clear the residue from the old ones out of the grooves before I could get the new ones in.