A/C working properly? Cost -> lower temp?

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carie snipped-for-privacy@mail.com wrote:

I thought you wanted an AC fixed or at least to be enabled to be comfortable? What is this nonsense all about, winning a dumb argument. http://www.udarrell.com/ac-trouble-shooting-chart.html Read & learn some things that can be helpful. It is all free... . - udarrell
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I browsed part of your site, and I appreciate your input. I don't know anything about fixing the A/C, and I don't have time to learn it. The site sheds light on all the different things that can be wrong. I think I'll print it out and attach it to my letter to the landlord, as an example of all the things that should be looked at, while that repairman spent literally 2 minutes with what looked like a volt meter before saying "it's working fine."
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wrote:

argument.http://www.udarrell.com/ac-trouble-shooting-chart.html
Never saw a volt meter that was capable of measuring line pressures for calculating superheat and subcooling. <VBG>
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Looked very odd to me, and I don't know anything about fixing A/Cs.
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The tech needs to hook up gauges to the outdoor unit. He also needs to take temperature reading on both of the outdoor lines. They need to diagnose what is actually going on with this unit. Without the proper data, everything is a guess. Which is why NOBODY here can tell you what's wrong with your unit.
When you get the following information, one can help you.
Suction Pressure Head Pressure Suction Line Temp Liquid Line Temp Ambient Temp Condenser Temp Indoor Return Temp Indoor Supply Temp Indoor WetBulb Temp Compressor Amps Rated Compressor Amps 11.5
And make sure the electric elements are not ON!
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Ummm...... nobody has asked if there has been a new thermostat installed recently.... like in the last 2 months.
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I was just reading about thermostats... It's the same one that been there for a least 1.5 years. It's a Totaline P474-0100. I changed the cycles per hour to 4 yesterday (it was 6; can be 2-6, "no limit," or "disable 5 minute compressor lockout"). I read that if the cycles were set to low the unit would simply not run enough to be able to cool the house. (And may not control the humidity as well.) The thinking was, in the mean time I'll live with it hot for part of the day, and then when it's cooler and 4 cycles will take it down to 78 then it will shut off because that's the temp setting. BUT, it appears the Goodman could care less what the thermostat says about cycles per hour. It ran for 2 straight hours. The fan is on Auto. I also noticed the instructions say not to install it near a register or the return. It's about 7'2" from the return, (at the same height, facing it from another (parallel) wall, not directly across - about 6'6" feet over; the walls are 3 feet apart; the wall with the thermostat ends (turns away 90 deg) after 1'6" towards the return. R --------------------------------------------------- T ------------- | | Living Room |
I started taking temp readings, as suggested. In the Living Room the temperature out of the register is consistently 15 degrees less than what the thermostat says (and I set the thermometer on top the thermostat to make sure they read the same...). In one bedroom (with the door shut) the temperature will be 71 degrees if the register is not shut (it's not), while the temp in the living room is 78 (the other side of the door).
The repair guy, who I thought didn't do anything in those 2 minutes, might have actually done something, as at least the apt is cooler than 83 now. But the A/C is running practically non-stop.
I also noticed than when I shut the vent in the (71 deg, above) bedroom it's not making the noise it used to - some air used to get through anyway. Not anymore - the air is not blowing nearly as hard as it used to. Which registers are open and which doors are shut is the same.
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On Jul 10, 1:04 pm, snipped-for-privacy@mail.com wrote:

Maybe I should add that 15 minutes after the A/C shuts off (or less?) the bedroom (above) and Living room are at the same temperature - 78. Surprised me a bit...
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On Jul 10, 1:22 pm, snipped-for-privacy@mail.com wrote:

Correction - the bedroom was still a couple degrees cooler...
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On Jul 10, 1:22 pm, snipped-for-privacy@mail.com wrote:

Correction - the bedroom was still a couple degrees cooler...
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for
diagnose
everything
Are you sure he didn't mess with the blower speed?
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I don't know. He wouldn't talk, and left very nervously when I asked him for his contractors license #, as I previously described.
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I don't know how long the pressure out of the vents has been like that, the noise I was referring to was from a few months ago. I don't know if he changed it.
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I don't know how long the pressure out of the vents has been like that, the noise I was referring to was from a few months ago. I don't know if he changed it.
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Would that lower the temperature of the air coming out of the register? It would make sense. Can he adjust that from the inside unit? It not - then he didn't. If he did, that was pretty underhanded (to make it 'look' like it was working).
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pressures
A/Cs.
needs to

your
installed
Yes, slowing down the blower would lower the outlet temperature. Yes, you change the speed of the indoor blower motor from inside.
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On Thu, 12 Jul 2007 11:06:09 -0700, carie snipped-for-privacy@mail.com wrote:

So there are three numbers here, the setting of the thermostat, the thermometer in/on the thermostat that is meant to say the temp of the room at the thermostat, and the separate thermometer. I don't know how common it is, but it's possible that the first two won't be the same, even when the AC (or furnace) switches off.
The important thing is actually not what the thermostat is set for, the setting, but what the temp of the rooms are when the AC or furnace is running. If the room never gets as cool as it is set for, judging by the thermometer on the thermostat or possibly better yet, the separately bought thermometer, the setting should be lowered to see if that gives a lower temp. Same in the winter if it doesn't get hot enough.
BTW, wHERE IS the thermostat? Not in the living room? What is it set for now?

That's pretty good.

That's still lower than it was when you first posted. A lot of light shines in that room maybe?

That doesn't seem good. Do you have neighbors with similarly shaped apartments facing the same direction etc, especially with the same AC? Maybe you can compare with them.
I don't think you ever told me the outside temp. If it's a 100, the AC might run all the time.

Why would it be underhanded? Why do you say it would only "look" like it was working. It's 71 and 78 which is a lot cooler than the 83 it was when you first posted. Maybe it was running at the wrong speed and he set it right**. Why are so many things underhanded by you?
**Mine only has one speed, but newer ones had more speeds and I was under the impression that eitehr there was one speed for heat and one speed for AC (and one speed for dehumidify if it had that fairly uncommon feature) OR that the AC or heat might vary the fan speed on its own. I don't know which is true, or maybe both.
But if it's working better and there is an 18 degree difference bwteen the input and output of the evaporator (inside) why would you think he was underhanded? Even if it is not perfect yet, and even if perhaps there were to be something else that could be fixed, why wouldn't you assume he had mostly fixed it, or it mostly fixed itself before he left, instead of again saying something is underhanded?
Did you know a lot of underhanded people when you were younger?
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Kjpro is going to fix it for you he only posted what I did 7/8 @ 4:14pm Tony
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In this regard, your higher education - hell, your elementary education - clearly failed you. But you go ahead and be as wrong as you want to be.
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HeyBub wrote:

The meridian is noon.
AM (ante meridian) or PM (post meridian) identifies which of two possible times of day a time might be. 3 PM is the 3:00 after the meridian, the 3:00 after noon, 3:00 in the afternoon. 11 AM is the 11:00 before the meridian.
This makes 12:00 post meridian (PM) the 12:00 after noon. Strangely enough, being after noon means it isn't noon. The only 12:00 in the day after noon would be midnight, except that that's usually considered to be in the next day, so there is no 12:00 PM.
Those who are logical about it will determine that the two 12:00 times of day need a different differentiation. Accordingly, we call one noon and the other midnight. Some people abbreviate these as 12:00 N and 12:00 M.
(Which of course is just a continuation of what HeyBub said.)
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