spur from cooker point?


About to install my new integrated gas hob and have realised that I need a power point for the hob ignition. The only power close by is the one used for the electric oven, this is isolated via a switch above the worktops.
As far as I can see the easiest method would be to take a spur from the point where the electric oven is connected but is this possible/allowed? Just to make it clear I can't spur from the oven isolation switch as the cabling isn't accessible. I will be using a 3amp fuse when connecting the hob but not sure what cabling I need to run etc.
Thanks, Tony
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Can you get at the ring main at all? Does your oven flex emerge from a cooker connection point on the wall? Can you spur off that? Pick the easiest option above. If all else fails and given the location I doubt your suggestion is going to upset too many people. Technically your just proposing to use your oven as a joint box and it would be mechanically sound.
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yes, the oven lead is connected to a connection on the wall - the 30amp circuit.
When I wire the spur I assume I need to use the same cable thickness that's used for the cooker point?

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Yes. Can you do it that way? If so all you need to do is put the right size fuse in it.
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You may not have to use the same thickness cable that is used for the cooker point.
What is the actual power rating of your oven?
Ovens seldom use more than 20 amps and single ovens are usually rated at 13 amps or less. If the oven is rated at 13 to 20 amps then spur off the connection point with 2.5 T&E to a FCU with a 3 amp fuse for the hob and change the 30/32 amp fuse/MCB to a 20 amp fuse/MCB in the CU.
If the oven is rated at 13 amps or less then change the connection point to a double socket. One socket for the oven and one for the hob.
If you have a monster of an oven that needs 30 amps then spur off the connection point to a 3 amp switched fused spur with 2.5mm T&E for the hob. This is in effect no more than adding a spur to a ring main.
Adam
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Yep. Fully agree.
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The oven was rated less than 13 amps so changed the oven connection point to a double socket as suggested and everything works ok.
Thanks, Tony

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Hi ALL .
You are wrong don't do what has been suggested. Your cooker has to be on it's own ring , like a shower. You should not extend it. it should be totally replaced from the consumer unit.
Regards.
Micky.
P.S use 4mm cable 30 amp.
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Sandy Savage wrote:

Utter nonsense. The only reason that would be necessary is if the device were a complete cooker, with dual oven, four rings, grill etc. If it is one of a collection of cooking devices, like a single oven, then it is not a 30A device.
In the 1997 houses in my road, all of the single ovens are simply plugged into switched 13A sockets beneath the work surface. These are then controlled (for convenience), from switched fuse outlets above the worktops.
JW
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