I was there. You weren't. Your claim is bullsh*t.
Note: I didn't even _ask_ for that credit. They did it all by themselves.
Note: this was more than 30 years ago. And in a territory with a strong and
active regulatory agency. And a state Attorney General that *really* hated
that particular utility company -- they had previously *sued* him, requesting
that the court grant order him to 'cease and desist harassment', no less.
You must live in a tiny town if they sent out an Engineer for that...LOL
Did he have ditch digging caluses on his hands too?
Nice going. Never give up when you know you are right.
You would never get a rebate here for high voltage. power delivered is power
As a matter of fact would his metor not run less with some things like his
fridge, vacuum, hair dryer, washing machine, dish washer, etc. What makes a
power metor spin? If voltage goes up does the amp draw go down?
I would give my left nut to have a little more voltage. Switch mode power
supplies love a slightly higher voltage and often run cooler when they are run
at max voltage.
Energy meters spin by the combination of current and voltage creating torque
on the non-ferrous disc as it tries to get out of the magnetic AC fluxes
created at 90 degrees to each other.
On resistive devices and most devices the current and power goes up as the
voltage increases. You bulb will be brighter etc..
On synchronous devices like AC motor compressors and furnace fans etc. the
speed is locked to the power line frequency. 60Hzx 2 changes x 60 sec/min /
#poles in the motor will pas the electromagnetic pole that creates the
torque and you typically get 1800 RPM. This is fairly constant, which means
the work that it puts out is constant also (constant workload) When you
lower the voltage to the motor now is has to draw more current to do the
same work and can eventually burn out by overheating from the high current.
BTW: If you have a disc or equivalent in your Electric Meter you can
determine the load of your house going through the meter at any given time
by clocking it with a stopwatch.
Look at you meter and observe the disc. You should notice a little black
mark passing on the edge of the disc every revolution. Time a couple of
these revolutions and mark the time (in seconds) down. I usually do about 60
seconds worth. There also may be fractional marks if your meter is moving
really slow and don't have an hour to wait (exag)
Also notice on the front of the nameplate of your meter there is a "disc
constant" noted as kH. This is the amount of energy (in watthours) that the
meter has measured each revolution of the disc. It will probably read
something like kH 7.2 or kH 12. This is the part that is tightly regulated
Now apply it to this formula:
revs x kH x time(secs) / 3600. sec per hour
This will give you your home load in watts (power). This technique can be
useful to check the power of appliances to see where you hard earned energy
dollars are going each month by shutting off all the breakers except one and
looking for the energy pigs.
If you have a solid state kilowatthour meter on your house there will be a
blinking LED or simulated disc in LCD but the same thing will apply. Look
for a constant for the "equivalent disc revs" or LED kH.
Best of luck.
depends on how you qualify it. biggest town in the state. pop. circa 250K
It was _unexpected_. I hadn't asked for it.
It wasn't big bucks either. 30+ years ago, now, so I don't have any precise
recollection of amount -- but I'm pretty sure it was under $20. An apartment,
in summertime -- without A/C -- and with a gas stove, doesn't use a lot of
Ya know, you could probably make this work with a little creativity.
Find a compressor that's happy running at any speed between near-zero
and max, (good luck) then rig up a speed governor and a CVT (variable
pulleys would probably be the most practical). Arrange it so that the
governor keeps the windmill turning at optimal speed, and varies the
compressor speed depending on how much energy is available from the
wind. So, light wind, slow compressor, heavy wind, fast compressor.
Unload it through a small restriction when the system's full, so it can
keep the windmill moving, but control its speed. You wouldn't need an
oversized rotor to deal with the torque at high compressor outlet
pressures since the CVT would adjust for that on the fly.
For the tanks, get some pressure protection valves. These work sort
of like check valves, but only open at so many PSI, like 60 or so, and
with no pressure drop through the valve once open. Some are pre-set,
others are adjustable. Set to above your expected working pressure (by
that I mean whatever you set the outlet regulator to) and below your
maximum tank pressure. Just above working pressure is probably best.
Hook it up as compressor-> valve-> small tank-> valve-> large tank->
valve-> large tank->... Then, for the outlet of all the tanks, regular
check valves to a common manifold and then the regulator.
The result you'd have is a pressure buildup time proportional to the
small tank up to the pressure where the protection valve opens, after
that it'll be proportional to the total volume of first and second until
second is full, then second plus third, and so on. But when using air
your pressure fall would be proportional to the entire system's volume
(or at least the volume of the tanks currently charged up) as the
manifold would always pull from the highest-pressure tank first.
Kind of complex, but would ensure that you have lots and lots of air
available at highest pressure, and your system would be arbitrarily
expandable simply by adding additional tanks at the end of your chain
without hurting buildup time. And with a moderate wind and
appropriately sized first tank, you'd have a good buildup time for when
you actually need highest pressure.
You could even eliminate the unloader scheme if you just stick a
pressure pop off valve at the end of the chain. Or just keep adding
bigger tanks until you can never fill the final one. (:
| | | or more tanks
Check Check Check
| | |
v v v
Probably couldn't run a sandblaster on it, but an impact, grinder,
nailer, or drill would be doable. Could probably even handle the fridge
idea someone mentioned earlier without trouble.
And if you outpace the system on occasion you would be able to
augment it with an engine or electric compressor that runs when you use
a whole lot of air and let the windmill keep the system topped off
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
Discussion has drifted to using compressed air as energy-storage medium.
A company I used to work at processed wire, and powered the take-up
reel with a rotary-vane air-motor, used as a constant-torque drive.
Its air consumption was horrendous for the small amount of work it
Another company used an old steam-powered fixed-crane to lift small
barges in and out of the water. Its boiler was long gone, so a 1000
CFM diesel air compressor powered it. Sometimes barely...
Are there available air motors efficient enough to make this storage
near Mountainair, (mid) New Mexico, USA
Net-Tamer V 1.12.0 - Registered
On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 14:22:04 +0000 (UTC), email@example.com
Not that I know of. Like you I can think of examples that prove the
inefficiency - like a standard corded 3/8 drill that needs but a few
hundred Watts of electricity, while its air-powered cousin keeps a
1500 Watt compressor pretty busy. Just the same, I can imagine a
Bowjon type windmill/compressor generating compressed air for home
shop use. It wouldn't be efficient, but the losses wouldn't matter if
the shop's demands were low, and if the windmill, pump, tank and labor
were all cheap. It's not something I'd bother with though, and even
for somebody with lots of time on their hands, I'd expect wind-driven
shop air to come *after* solar-heated water and wind-powered battery
You might try looking at what the Amish do to get around the problems.
I remember reading somewhere about a group of Amish woodworkers who
have converted their electric motors to hydraulics (of course you have
to be able to get the hydraulic pressure) but they probably have a few
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