Yea, they do make an epoxy for copper pipe. I have never used it, but
hear it works. I'd rather solder the pipe and know it will come apart
(when needed), with a torch.
If you need to go back too far, to cut out the piece you want to repair,
just cut the pipe and solder in a coupler. Just dont solder it too near
an epoxy joint. The heat could cause that epoxy to fail or maybe even
Soldering copper pipe is not hard, as long as you use a good torch and
use the correct flux and solder. Plus make sure the copper is very
I have to strongly disagree with them sharkbites. I have seen them fail,
and it's no pretty scene. All it takes is having that sharkbite fitting
too close to a stud or other object that puts some pressure on the
locking sleeve and you got a wide open pipe. Not worth the time savings
and they are very costly as well. The best thing to do with them, is to
leave them fill shelf space in the store. Plumbing codes should not even
allow them, except for temporary use, (meaning not longer than 24
hours). They do provide a means to temporarily cut out a leaky pipe, and
connect a new section of pipe overnight, until the pipe can be repaired
On 2/20/2018 5:17 PM, snipped-for-privacy@Weiser.com wrote:
I can't speak from experience other than talking with a few plumber
friends who've use the Sharkbite, but they have nothing but good things
to say about them and the longevity thus far. They said if they fail,
they weren't correctly installed.
My only personal experience is moving my outside faucet to another
location on my house. I used Sharkbite to connect copper to PEX about 12
years ago and I've yet to have a problem.
On 02/20/2018 04:17 PM, snipped-for-privacy@Weiser.com wrote:
In my situation I replaced a section of galvanized between two copper
runs. It had multiple leaks. It's on the unfinished basement ceiling and
no chance of anything disturbing it. If anything would go wrong though
it's above the basement drain and all that might get wet is the wash tubs.
I guess that's fairly safe as long as the sharkbites are not stuck
against any wood, but if you do have a pipe come apart your water bill
could be huge. That galv pipe probably sprung leaks because of the
dielectric corrosion between the copper. Sometime when you got nothing
else to do, solder in that new piece of copper and do it right. Sounds
like you only need to solder in two couplers. Thats simple when it's
right out in the open.
I just helped a friend replace all his pipes. It's an old victorian
house and it had sections of steel pipe, rigid copper pipe, soft copper
tubing, PVC, and CPVC. All mixed up. There was around 170 ft of pipe,
but he only needed about 80 ft. It went across the basement and came
back again. There were spots that looked like they had moved the water
heater at least 3 times, and two washmachine hookups. The pipe to the
outdoor spigot was cut off and plugged. There were at least 5 places
dripping when I first saw it, one filled a 5 gallon pail every day.
Another spot had rolls of electrical tape around the pipe, and he had
just clamped a piece of rubber around another spot that was shooting
water across the basement.
I took one look at it and said "lets rip it all out and start over".
That made him nervous, but he soon learned that was the easiest way. I
took a sawsall and cut that old shit in pieces and got rid of it. He
wanted CPVC, so thats what we used. By the end of the day it was all
connected except the bathtub because he wants to change to a shower. We
just put some shutoffs there. and also put a shutoff for an outdoor
spigot, because it was too cold outside to install that spigot. What a
huge difference that made. His water pressure doubled, and you no longer
got a bath walking thru his basement from dripping pipes.
How long do you have to wait for that stuff to dry before you can turn
on the water? I never used it. With solder, by the time you walk to the
water shutoff, the solder is hard. I did sort of think heat would
release any epoxy, but I bet it would not be possible to solder to
either the pipe or the fitting, because that epoxy would be near
impossible to remove entirely.
I bet JB Weld would also work on copper plbg, but why bother, and have
to wait for it to harden. Just solder it and be done.
I acquired a small pile of them, when I helped a guy replace some
plumbing. Someone had used a bunch of them sharkbites and we replaced
all the plumbing, so the owner was gonna toss them in the trash along
with some old copper pipe. I took the copper for recycling and I saved
those sharkbites for temporary repairs. I did use them when I was making
up a solar water heater. for temporary connections, so that I could
determine the best way to run the pipes, but that was just until I got
around to soldering the copper. I keep them handy though, for
The one I had separatre was inside a wall. After applying the sharkbite,
they strapped the pipe in such a way that the sharkbite was tight
against a stud. Over time, probably from expansion and contraction of
the pipes, the pressure of the wood agaisnt that thing, caused the pipe
to come loose and flood the whole place. A huge mess. That wall had to
be removed, and a lot more damage repaired.
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