Woodpecker Rules

Nice saw. If I had the budget and had to replace my Unisaw with something similar ... a made in Canada, General 650 would be at the top of my list.

Had the pleasure of using one a few years back and was more impressed with it than any other TS I've ever used, including the older Powermatics and Grizzly.

And, in this day and age, and with the slightest chance of someone else using it your shop and you needing to protect your assets from liability, a Sawstop.

Reply to
Swingman
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Agreed on most cabinet saws. The top and trunnion on a cabinet saw are both attached to the cabinet.

But you bang the trunnion on the typical contractors saw. The trunnion is attached to the top and the top is attached to the cabinet.

Reply to
Leon

FWIW I don't know of any one that does not make a respectable "true" cabinet saw. The Griz you mentioned above should be fine.

Contractors saws are a totally different matter and you need to do your home work if getting one.

Reply to
Leon

Now, if you really want to get technical, there is nothing to stop you from loosening the top of a cabinet saw AND banging on the _cabinet_ instead. LOL!

The point being of course, on either ... with all the precision you get from "banging" on something. :)

Reply to
Swingman

you engage the measuring mechanism?

I'm thinking that because it can slide in the t-slot, that there would be some slop in the measuring caused by it, as small as that slop might be?

Reply to
Dave

None at all, because it doesn't slide, it rolls. Simple engineering principle ... A precision bearing, or wheel, makes continuous and intimate contact with the surface it rolls/rides against.

Three precision roller bearings form a triangle ... two fixed, and spaced apart bearings roll against the same side wall of the machined miter slot; a third, adjustable bearing, centered between the two fixed bearings, rolls against the opposite wall of the miter slot.

Simply place the unit in the miter slot and adjust the middle bearing so that all three bearings contact, and are touching/rolling against both miter slot walls.

Result, no "slop" at all.

Ed Bennett is one helluva engineer, and that fact shows in every aspect of his product.

Reply to
Swingman

;~) and I was not trying to get into a pissing contest.

Reply to
Leon

------------------------------------------------------------------------- I would not try to set cutter knives parallel to feed tables on a jointer, unless I had the magnetic jig sold for the purpose.

Life is just to short to try to do otherwise.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Thank you. I will learn about the jig.

One of the features of Grizzly's "parallelogram" jointer, supposedly a step-up than the standard/traditional design, is that the infeed and outfeed tables are supposed to say parallel, even after adjustments, after the jointer is set up the first time. The infeed and outfeed tables move together. The Lee Valley 38-inch straight-edge ($40) will probably come in handy for more things than I can anticipate.

Bill

Reply to
Bill

I dont recall which one you looking at but you should strongly consider the spiral cutter head. Thinking a little further, look at the Griz jointers with the carbide cutters. These stay sharp a long time can have their cutting surfaces renewed by rotating them up to 4 times and require no measuring what so ever then renewing or replacing the cutting tips.

Reply to
Leon

...

_Presuming_ the jointer has the indexing hole/jig of the Delta/Powermatic, and ideally, the spring at the bottom of the blade against which it will sit to hold it up while adjusting, then all that is needed is a straight edge, preferably a hardwood block that you can use to check against.

Raise the infeed table to _precisely_ even w/ the outfeed and since the knife should be at TDC owing to the indexing, all you need is to hold the knife down at the level w/ the block and tighten. Do it uniformly across the beds as pushing one end down causes the other to raise, of course.

You can easily make a magnetic setting tool--Radio Shack has a set of roughly 3/4"x 1" rare earth magnets--forget the number in the set but get six. Again start w/ a piece of hardwood (hard maple/beech/etc.) and make two pieces w/ a straight, smooth surface of roughly 8-10" length and couple inches wide or so for convenience. Place the magnets on the infeed or outfeed table, one at each end of your pieces and one towards one end removed enough from the end that it will cover the knife location when the two ends are in place on the infeed/outfeed table w/o hitting either. Use a dab of RTV to glue them in place and when thoroughly dry--voila! a jig as good as the commercial at a fraction of the cost.

Since the table is the reference surface, the magnets are as straight/flat as the table surface and any small imperfection in your mounting blocks is taken up by the RTV.

--

Reply to
dpb

Here they are: the G0490 and G0490X. The later is $325 more.

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this to face *one side* of a piece of wood. ; ) I hope someone likes my work enough to keep me building!

Bill

Reply to
Bill

I went to the Woodworkingshows event today and ended up getting Woodpecker's 24" woodworking rule (it just "feels good" and heavy). I went back to the booth later and got the "rule stop". They practically had to pry the credit card out of my hand for that--but "accessorizing" the rule felt right--and the rule stop will help me make use of the rule that much more. I ordering the 38" Straight-edge from Lee Valley. LV didn't bring one to the show, but they are taking care of shipping and sales tax (for all orders placed at the show). Also ordered their "Chemical Splash Goggles", a polycarbonate, that are able to go over regular glasses to use as safety glasses. They are supposed to be "fog free" and I am hopeful they will work out.

The show was good. I thought the presentation by "The Coach", Andy Chidwick, on wood-bending was particularly informative. He has a school in Montana. Roland Johnson had a lot of information about bandsaws and bandsaw blades too. He pointed out that he wrote a book on them, and it looks like one I may collect down the road (Taunton had alot of their books for sale, all the full suggested retail price).

Across the steet, folks lined the building by the hundreds all day (surely, many thousands in all), to get into the "Gun Show". With Obama doing what he is doing, there is alot of interest in the 2nd Ammendment! There was reportedly more gun show attendees than ever--by a landslide. And I have a hunch folks are buying. According to the news, someone shot themselves in the hand, by accident, in the parking lot as they were leaving.

Watch for the Woodworkingshows if it comes to your area. Lee Valley has some nice stuff to see! ; ) I pick up some of the same tools at their booth every year, it's like they are becoming old friends! lol

Cheers, Bill

Reply to
Bill

Bill wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news6.newsguy.com:

*snip*

Let me know how that works out. I've tried to get goggles or safety glasses that work properly with my glasses, and they all fog up or have some other problem. (One set of OTG safety glasses had terrible reflections.)

Puckdropper

Reply to
Puckdropper

Bill wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news6.newsguy.com:

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Rose and I had left the Woodworking Show only five minutes later, we would have been right in front of that building when it happened. We heard a whole lot of sirens as we were getting into the car to go home, and saw an ambulance leaving the fairgrounds as we headed west on 38th St.

Guess that explains it.

What an idiot.

Reply to
Doug Miller

Puckdropper wrote in news:50fb607d$0$41372$c3e8da3 $ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com:

Use a face shield. The only times I've ever had fogging problems with a face shield, I've been using it outdoors in very cold weather (e.g. while using a chain saw to cut up a fallen tree in January).

There are multiple reasons for using a face shield instead of goggles, IMHO:

  1. more comfortable
  2. doesn't fog
  3. easier to put on
  4. because of 1 thru 3 above, you're more likely to use it
  5. much better field of vision
  6. there are other things on your face besides your eyes that are worth protecting.
Reply to
Doug Miller

------------------------------------------------------ Buy the right unit and replacement shields are low cost and simple to replace.

Check WW Grainger or a safety supply house.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

"Doug Miller" wrote

  1. Much easier to clean. I use alcohol to clean mine.
  2. The face shield is easily (and economically) replaced.

I have always been a safety freak. I grew up among folks who weren't. It was a burning ambition of mine, when young, to NOT get maimed like others I have known.

I can't remember the specific incident. But I got hit hard in the face shield once. It was loud and knocked me on my butt. I sat there with my head ringing. Not only does it protect a much bigger area, but it absorbs more shock. Think about it. I am a big guy. The impact knocked me over. Imagine what it would have done to my face if the face shield was not in the way.

Reply to
Lee Michaels

I've been wearing glasses since I was 8 years old. At times, they are a PITA for one reason or another. Then I take them off at the end of the day to clean them and often think, "sure is nice to have to wear them".

In the course of our daily life, lots of stuff gets onto your face and eyes. Fry up some bacon, cut the grass, cut some wood, they take a look at what has accumulated.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

"Mike Marlow" wrote in news:kdgnku$56o$1@dont- email.me:

[clown shot himself in the hand while reloading a handgun]

Oh, I dunno, there might be some entertainment value in delving into it... I'm still trying to figure out how you can manage to shoot yourself in the *hand* while reloading a handgun.

Reply to
Doug Miller

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