Will A Taiwanese TS Have A Metric Arbor Nut?

I think all, at least most digital calipers show MM, inch and fractions. I rarely use anything other than fractions though. My digital calipers, besides the dead battery thing also has the the added advantage of the battery cover falling off. Granted, that's just this particular model, but still...

My biggest gripe besides the above is I really have no need for 7/128ths of an inch. I'd love it if it had a selectable precision like say

Now that I have the dial calipers in fractions, I have no need for the digital crap other than rare instances. With the added advantage they are ALWAYS ready to go, no worries of a dead battery.

Also, the dial is segmented into 1/64ths of an inch, and EASY to read, and while never needed, it's easy even for old tired eyes to read between the lines so technically 128th is a snap, even if useless for most everything in a wood shop.

I also use the Fractional Calculator/Plus free app on my phone. Works a treat and is made for woodworkers. Doing this stuff in your head is fraught with danger, particularly if your head is old and curmudgeonly...

At one time long, long long ago when I used a regular calculator and had to convert decimals into fractions, I had most of them memorized like Leon. I had a card I made for reference just in case. All that is obsoleted with this app.

Interestingly, I still have the little solar powered calculator I bought in the 70's that still works perfect. Last I checked, it even worked in the dark w/o solar with it's battery that can't be changed. The solar works with just the florescent lighting in my shop. That thing is amazing although obsolete with the cell phone apps. It still sits in top of my TS fence.

The simple answer is draw more accurately. ;~) It is an accuracy drawing problem. I was always at fault. I use a plug-in for Sketchup that I have a short cut key to use. I select a line and or object and invoke the short cut key and a pop up window gives me dimensions of that selection so that I can verify.

Also if I do something wrong I begin to see stuff not working correctly. An error multiplies. This is an important reason to make components so that correcting an issue does not involve the whole drawing.

I have found Sketchup to be dead on accurate once I determined that small discrepancies were my errors.

The plug-in mentioned above is what I often use to quickly find the problem.

I do use lengths when not snapping to an existing point. Somewhere along the way something goes wacky. I'm wondering if it's not a conversion or rounding error.

I don't think I can make any dimension less a 1/64th.

What size did that arbor nut turn out to be?

Joe Gwinn

No, not by the program in the increment that you're referencing, 1/64". I don't think so. Sketchup really only rounds if your input is wonky. Do you work in smaller fractions that would require Sketchup to round up?

If your length is input or snaps to x/128 or smaller it would round up. But if you are drawing, intentionally, in x/32" of an inch or greater I don't see any rounding.

I have never found it to be Sketchup's fault.

Not in fractions but in decimal/engineering you can go to .00000"

I think a 23 mm wrench would have worked the best.

A 7/8" wrench was too small, a 15/16" was a little sloppy, but with slow, steady pressure I got it to break free. They were trying to get it off with a cheap 8" crescent. No way.

The nut was buggered up a bit, but I don't think it was so bad that that was what prevented the 7/8" from going on.

I don't even use 64ths. I don't often use 1/8s, unless forced to.

Probably not but it's happened so many times that it's something that's repeated. It seems to always be 1/64".

That's why I think there may be some rounding going on.

Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:MfOdneAkZ6ebP7_ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

I did that once...man that was annoying. I think it was 1.15 rather than

I also watch for the colors when drawing the line, but use the keyboard shortcuts to help. If I know the line is going in the red direction, I press right to snap it to the red direction. Left is green and Blue is up/down.

Puckdropper

A US 7/8" wrench opening range is 0.880 to 0.888 inches.

A US 15/16" wrench opening range is 0.944 to 0,953 inches.

There is no standard 23 mm wrench, only 22 mm and 24 mm. But 29/32" is almost exactly 23 mm. There were such things as 29/32" wrenches in the old days (before WW2?), but no longer.

The 15/16" wrench you used, is it 12-point or 6-point, or open-end? A

What is the diameter of the arbor shaft that holds the saw blade. Likely 5/8", as this is standard for circular saw arbors from 6" to

Agree. Nicely rounded.

Well, I inherited an old Delta franken-saw from my father, and while it worked OK, it did very much need new bearings. Which it eventually got.

I did have to make a special wrench to unscrew the bearing retaining spanner nut, which was recessed into the cavity holding the bearings. Making the tool required metalworking tools, a lathe and a mill. Nothing else would work.

Joe Gwinn

If your inputs are correct and your lines are snapping to where they should be attaching, there should be no rounding at all.

I normally do not use the arrow keys to lock and I had forgotten that you just have to type the arrow key and let go. I usually use the arrow keys if I am drawing a line close to another and don't want it to snap to that line.

But good to know that is is easy to do.

Then what are all these? There's some unrelated items mixed in, but lots of 23 mm, singles and in sets.

Don't know, don't care. Not my saw. ;-)

Hmm. It isn't a standard size in the US, as listed in Machinery's Handbook. An older book, so I'll look in more recent versions.

Right.

Joe Gwinn

Should and shouldn't. The problem is that I have no idea how, or how to tell, what's going on. I don't find the problem for some time after it occurs so can't track it back to a specific cause.