Will A Taiwanese TS Have A Metric Arbor Nut?

The second (pocket) one would be of little use to me. I use all three features of my calipers. Inside, outside and depth. I also use them outside of the shop.

e.g. I was mounting a TV this weekend and needed to know how deep one of the holes on the TV was. I didn't want the bolt to make connect with any internal parts. The depth gauge helped me determine the right length for the bolt.

I find vernier too hard to see in most light. It'd more or less necessary in some circumstances, like miter gauges but in that case lighting isn't as much a problem. It's a small work space. I sure don't want to use a vernier for everything.

Dial calipers are a good compromise. Metal calipers are fragile and easily dinged. Plastic is less likely to get damaged by "normal" shop use. I had Wiha calipers at work. It was metric but they have an imperial version. Not cheap though.

I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.

For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better than what a rule can do.

As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.

When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge (+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old combination-square so that surprised me.

At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.

I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well as decimal inch and metric)

Same here. 3 types of physical measurements and 3 types of readings.

I also like the Fraction Calculator app that I have on my smartphone. Direct entry of mixed numbers:

It also provides a decimal result (1.5625)

I'm rarely if ever working in two systems at once. Having more than one dial caliper in the drawer is far less aggravation than picking up a caliper with dead batteries.

I *never* use decimal inches.

I don't use a calculator, just do the arithmetic using the largest denominator.

If it needs to be divided by two, multiply the largest denominator by two.

For what purpose? So that you can convert to metric?

I find it much faster to draw in Sketchup using Decimal inches. I'm good for most any resolution that I draw to, .125" increments.

And when plaining I can visualize decimal increments over something like

But mixed fractions, 2-7/16" - 27/32". I know double the 7 and subtract 27.

Or multiple mixed fractions and mixed operations

(4 3/16 - 2 5/8 + 1 1/2 + 3 23/32) / 3 = 2 25/96 or 2.26042

Why hurt my head when I can tap some buttons? *Waaaay* less chance of an error.

We all use technology to make our lives easier. A slide rule put a man on the moon, but I think they've upgraded their technology by now.

I find that conversion much harder, particularly if it doesn't come out exact. I don't know how it happens but once in a while, Sketch up gets slightly (1/64, typically) off.

OK, that's 2-14/32 - 27/32 You know you're going to have to borrow one so add one (32/32) to the

Everyone here (I'm assuming) knows the math.

We also know how to write a letter, put it in an envelope, stamp it and get it into the USPS system in one manner or the other. Yet most of us use email.

We all know how to chop nuts into little pieces with a knife, but many of us use a food processer.

I could beat my clothes on a rock down by the river, but I choose to use my washing machine.

Like I said earlier, tapping buttons gets me the same answer, quicker, easier and with less (zero?) chance of error.

Repeating my other example, I'd use the app for this every time:

(4 3/16 - 2 5/8 + 1 1/2 + 3 23/32) / 3 = 2 25/96 or 2.26042

Yes....

I remember that issue coming up every once in a while when I was learning. It most often happened when I dimension something that is not closed in to make a flat surface. IE. The last line to close the object looks close enough but does not. If the surface did not form/darken it was probably not drawn as expected. And the dimensioning measures the line that looked like it was the length you wanted.

I try not to actually drag and click on an attachment point. I try to start the line in the direction that I want it to go and then type the distance.

I found that this most often happened when not insuring the lines were going in the direction that I expected, although they appeared to be.

Sorry. Got no apps in my shop.

Does that attach it to another object? Using gravity guarantees that it's attached (but perhaps not where you think it is, I guess). I tend to spin the objects around to make sure everything is as I expect it to be.

Gravity? Are you referring to snap-to? Yes on small details the snap points can be either end or mid point, and lengthen or shorten the line. AND often a type-o can draw a line a certain distance and then the new line to connect to it makes the object NON Square to reach a connection point.

Absolutely!!! I try to watch for the red, blue, and green lines when drawing a line. Pink/Purplish lines mean that lines are not setting up in ortho mode and are possibly going in a direction that is the same as another non ortho line.