Will A Taiwanese TS Have A Metric Arbor Nut?

Feb 24, 2022 Last reply: 4 years ago 95 Replies

The nut. The arbor is still 5/8 on the small diameter end. The bearing end is quite a bit larger in diameter.

I bought an inexpensive wrench at HD years ago and ground it down narrower with a bench grinder.

Check out the picture I posted.

5/8" arbor but how large are the flats the wrench bites into?

I wonder what wold qualify as a "decent size". I wonder if the nut is a decent size.

The open end of the wrench is 1.25" The closed end 1.0625"

I wonder what range of sizes a table saw arbor nut could possibly be ? I wonder what size of adustable wrench would fit and also provide good leverage for the stuck nut ? Oh my goodness .. so many important details to ponder ! John T.

I know right? LOL. I looked on line sad saw no adjustable sized wrenches with the size stated as "good sized". ;~)

Based on the information provided in this thread, the range is at least

29/32? to 1 1\4?.

I wonder what the range of ?stuck? is.

Based on my experience, an 8? crescent isn?t enough for the lower end of the range at the stuckness of the nut in question.

I hope I have made the pondering easier by supplying some empirical data.

I used to keep a 3 foot long crescent wrench around for such situations. It would open to more than 3 inches and doubled occasionally as a BFH. People didn't tend to mess with me when I had it in my hand either. But one day somebody nicked it and I haven't felt the need to shell out for another one.

One would assume that OP would be intelligent enough to know what a "good size" adjustable wrench for the saw he owns is. Its his saw after all. Of course there is the possibility he has never change a blade before, doesn't know if he can pull a dust cover if need be or must reach through a plate opening in the table, and has no ability to visualize simple spacial relations. I don't think that is very likely. Even those most limited in ability develop those skills over time with practice in trades such as wood working. You all could choose to argue for the incompetence of DerbyDad03, but I choose to think based on observation even if just in this group that is not the case. If you prefer not the term good size, then try on appropriate size, decent size, or right size. In spite of the fact that many seem to think dumping selection and raising prices is a best business practices for retail I still choose to believe most of you possess a reasonable modicum of intelligence.

Like when Lincoln was asked how long a man's legs should be, because he was so tall. He replied "just long enough to reach the floor."

I don't think he's even _started_ to read the thread.

>

Try this one:

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It needs a (usable) vernier scale on it and I'd buy them. It may have its uses in any case. Thanks, I hadn't seen that.

Have you even read this thread? I've already stated that it's not my saw.

Have you even read this thread? I've already stated (and most everyone else here knows) that I know how to change a blade on many different types of saws. The question was *only* on the type of nut (metric or SAE) on a saw that was known to made in Taiwan.

Umm...ok...who here mentioned my "incompetence"? Maybe I missed that part of my own thread. Can you point it out for me?

between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I thought I would.

The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my shop.

Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.

Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30 on Ebay.

These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...

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John T.

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