How much does it cost to get a blade sharpened. I can't imagine anyone doing anything for less than $40-50.
I don't even bother to sharpen chan saw chains. They are $15-20
How much does it cost to get a blade sharpened. I can't imagine anyone doing anything for less than $40-50.
I don't even bother to sharpen chan saw chains. They are $15-20
For my circular saws and table saws I have a bunch of old (used, not sharp)
7.25" and 10" carbide tipped blades I've accumulated over the years. Blades are so much improved and cheap now days so its hard to justify to have it professionally resharpen. I see you could make clocks out of those blades, but I don't need any more clocks. One other thing I could do with it is use it with the rebars in a future concrete pour. I've resharpen some of it by hand but as I said new blades are so cheap now so why bother. What have you guys done with old blades other than toss it with the trash?
Cheap?? Where do you buy yours?
The last 10" blade I bought was $70 (CMT)..
Not at $70 a blade.
You must buy your blades at HD or Menards or Lowes.
My "quality" blades are freuds. I use them for "real" woodworking. For toobafours and other carpentery work, I used the cheap ones, mostly in my circular and miter saws. My freuds cost me about $50-60 each at woodworking shows. My cheapies cost me 8-15 bucks at menards.
You could trying making a set of cymbals out of them. I've heard of some people cutting them up and using them for various cutting/carving tools.
John
I throw them around on the beach...yannow...like a Frisbee?
For some reason, nobody ever wants to play with me.
I used those cheapo blades when i first started out in the hobbie and bought my first real blade (CMT) and I couldn't believe the difference in the cut. I was blown away. I almost don't need the jointer after ripping anymore. Sometimes I have to look really hard at the board to determine which side I just ripped.
Think "Scrapers".
I often glue up straight from the table saw...and I don't have a big-buck saw like a lot of you guys in here. A good blade and I make sure I'm dead-nuts vertical to the table.
I want a jointer, down the road a ways, for other things, but I can live without one just fine.
I don't have a big buck saw either :) (check out my cheap saw at link below) or a big buck fence for that matter, but boy does a "good" quality blade make a HUGE difference.
I cut them up and make knives, scrapers, honing plates and other things from them. max
I gotta say I NEVER do any thing to a ripped edge before gluing it.
Not so. Here is a company that does it for 21 cents a tooth. My blade has
40 teeth. $8.50 for resharpening.GFretwell wrote but didn't archive: snip> I don't even bother to sharpen chan saw chains. They are $15-20
But I think a sharpening is cheaper than that. Tom
Nice web page; I like the way you did the various hot spots.
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A dull jointer can leave a glaze on the surface of the edge which a saw blade won't. I know that hard maple can glaze to the point where a drop of water will bead. I found that the use of freshly sharpened blades reduces glazing. A sawn edge seems to take glue better. It is a highly subjective observation and I have never tested relative joint strengths.
Great idea, thanks. Occasionally I do have a need for some good steel and I bet a saw blade has it.
LOL! Your project schedule sounds like mine. Somebody's gonna' really make out at my estate sale :-).
Thanks. It is poplar with a red water based stain. Then sealed.
It only lasted a couple of years. I need to make a new one, this time out of cedar.
Thank you.
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