If you get a drill press, make sure you get one that has a spindle
travel of at LEAST 2.5", preferably longer. It may take time to find a
model you like with this underappreciated feature, and maybe cost a
little more, but IMHO, its worth it.
I agree with Edwin. Get at least a 12" swing. I got a bench top DP
with a 10" swing and it's the bare minimum I could live with. I
would've been nice if I had gotten one with a 12" swing at least.
On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 20:35:55 GMT, "searcher1"
On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 22:46:18 -0800, Layne <> wrote:
The main difference I've noticed between bench top and floor standing
drill presses is quill travel.
Most bench tops have 2 1/2" to 3" of quill travel. Most floor
standers have 3 1/2" to 4 1/2" or more of quill travel.
A lot of people have them and claim they're just dandy, but every one I've
ever looked at has been incredibly crappy.
My first drill press was a 10" benchtop. It was very useful, but I found it
somewhat limiting. Two or three years later, I swapped for a 15" floor
model. If I had it all to do over again, I would have gone straight for
the floor model.
I rarely use more than a quarter of the table travel, but I very regularly
use more table travel than I had on the benchtop. It has a beefier chuck
that runs truer, and actually grips small bits better than the smaller
chuck did. A floor model can do everything a benchtop can do, but the
reverse just isn't true.
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < email@example.com>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
unless he gets Craftsman or HF. [running and ducking for cover]
Just kidding folks! It's a funny. Not meant to impugn your favorite
brand. Save the flames for when I'm seriously rotten. This is a J-O-K-E.
What's the appropriate acronym for running/ducking. I used to use it on
Compuserve. The mind is the second thing to go...
I agree with this concept 99.9%...the only knock on it is that often, if you
wait until the last minute, you end up having to buy less of a machine than
you otherwise would have since the ONLY DP/OSS/BS that is available now or
for the next 3 weeks is this Harbor Fright-type thing.
This can, obviously, be worked around by figuring out what you'll need
BEFORE actually making chips/dust, but how many of us haven't jumped into a
job just a teensy bit too quickly?
Yeah, I have been using my router and a stright bit to give me a stright
edge which to join, so I guess if that is working for me right now I can put
off the jointer. Plus I get an almost perfect cut with my TS, at least when
I make the cut I can flipp the boards and have them butt perfectly. I think
that I will go with a 12 in DP now, on to which model to choose. I have a
budget of 200.00 and would also like to get a set of forstner bits with the
Big congrads on the router/table saw use for squaring boards. That is
how we learn. Recent tool book had Rigid DP, 15 inch as a good #2,
which was $100 USD less than #1. My BORG has that for $298.
Patience is more than a virtue.
It depends, of course, on what you need to do. You can't resaw a
board with a drill press and you can't bore a square hole with a
bandsaw. You have to think about what you want to do that you
currently can't because you don't have the tools to do it with.
(That said, I can tell you the my DP gets used far more often than my
BS, and also far more often than I ever thought it would.)
On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 19:15:29 GMT, "searcher1"
Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection.
If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.