If you get a drill press, make sure you get one that has a spindle
travel of at LEAST 2.5", preferably longer. It may take time to find a
model you like with this underappreciated feature, and maybe cost a
little more, but IMHO, its worth it.
I agree with Edwin. Get at least a 12" swing. I got a bench top DP
with a 10" swing and it's the bare minimum I could live with. I
would've been nice if I had gotten one with a 12" swing at least.
On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 20:35:55 GMT, "searcher1"
On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 22:46:18 -0800, Layne <> wrote:
The main difference I've noticed between bench top and floor standing
drill presses is quill travel.
Most bench tops have 2 1/2" to 3" of quill travel. Most floor
standers have 3 1/2" to 4 1/2" or more of quill travel.
A lot of people have them and claim they're just dandy, but every one I've
ever looked at has been incredibly crappy.
My first drill press was a 10" benchtop. It was very useful, but I found it
somewhat limiting. Two or three years later, I swapped for a 15" floor
model. If I had it all to do over again, I would have gone straight for
the floor model.
I rarely use more than a quarter of the table travel, but I very regularly
use more table travel than I had on the benchtop. It has a beefier chuck
that runs truer, and actually grips small bits better than the smaller
chuck did. A floor model can do everything a benchtop can do, but the
reverse just isn't true.
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < firstname.lastname@example.org>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
unless he gets Craftsman or HF. [running and ducking for cover]
Just kidding folks! It's a funny. Not meant to impugn your favorite
brand. Save the flames for when I'm seriously rotten. This is a J-O-K-E.
What's the appropriate acronym for running/ducking. I used to use it on
Compuserve. The mind is the second thing to go...
I agree with this concept 99.9%...the only knock on it is that often, if you
wait until the last minute, you end up having to buy less of a machine than
you otherwise would have since the ONLY DP/OSS/BS that is available now or
for the next 3 weeks is this Harbor Fright-type thing.
This can, obviously, be worked around by figuring out what you'll need
BEFORE actually making chips/dust, but how many of us haven't jumped into a
job just a teensy bit too quickly?
Yeah, I have been using my router and a stright bit to give me a stright
edge which to join, so I guess if that is working for me right now I can put
off the jointer. Plus I get an almost perfect cut with my TS, at least when
I make the cut I can flipp the boards and have them butt perfectly. I think
that I will go with a 12 in DP now, on to which model to choose. I have a
budget of 200.00 and would also like to get a set of forstner bits with the
Big congrads on the router/table saw use for squaring boards. That is
how we learn. Recent tool book had Rigid DP, 15 inch as a good #2,
which was $100 USD less than #1. My BORG has that for $298.
Patience is more than a virtue.
It depends, of course, on what you need to do. You can't resaw a
board with a drill press and you can't bore a square hole with a
bandsaw. You have to think about what you want to do that you
currently can't because you don't have the tools to do it with.
(That said, I can tell you the my DP gets used far more often than my
BS, and also far more often than I ever thought it would.)
On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 19:15:29 GMT, "searcher1"
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