I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a top coat of polyurathane. The Danish oil can says to wait 72 hours, not a mere 3.
So what is the effect of only waiting 3? So far everything looks fine, it's been 2 hours.
I can't undo it now but was just wondering what to expect.
Tomorrow, I'll add another coat of poly, or should I wait, say 72?
Why are you in such of a hurry? Jim
Just impatient. I've been procrastinating on finishing this thing I'm building for my son to dry his hockey clothes.
It's a big box looking thing made od a redwood carcass with oak veneer paneling. It has a fan inside which sucks air across the sweaty hockey clothes. It'll be stored in his garge or his laundry room.
Not fine funrniture!
Danish Oil? Poly? Oak Veneer? For drying jock straps?
Will the fan at least be vented to the outside? 'Course then he might have to deal with neighbors or the EPA! :o)
Why did you put danish oil on if you were going to top coat with poly? I normally wait 12 hours. If you do it sooner, the solvent just picks up the previous coat; sometimes giving really lousy results.
You'll get an ugly thing covered in a skin of polyurethane, rather than an ugly thing covered in a skin of polyurethane.
Strictly you'll prevent the danish oil from curing (depending somewhat on what sort of varnish this "danish" oil was mixed with). This will reduce the quality of the bond between the overlying polyurethane varnish film and the underlying timber. So you might reduce its wear behaviour, in case you happened to care.
In terms of what it looks like, I doubt you'll see any difference (hey, why not _try_ it and learn for sure?). But I wouldn't ever overcoat danish oil anyway, nor would I oil beneath poly. If I were going to use an oil and shellac finish (probably my most common) then I'd use tung oil rather than danish oil, and I'd use shellac rather than plastic mud.
Danish oil, covered (too quickly) in poly? Why??
Dave
Never Enough M> I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
As a hockey player myself and a wooddorker, I don't think it will much matter what happens for this project. I didn't even put any finish at all on my equipment drying rack. It will be fine.
Frank
Why do you think the oil manufacturer is lying?
Then why not water based paint? This stuff dries in an hour or less. Jim
Because I had 2 quarts of Danish oil handy.
Don't think hockey players wear underwear -- that's what I've been told. He's drying mostly pads.
I said it was NOT fine furniture. I'll add that's it's not an eye sore either.
Danish oil brings color to the wood. Thanks.
Becasue there's moisture in sweat. Didn't want the redwood expanding/contracting.
Never thought the manufacturer was lying. I just didn't read the can till after my impatience had gotten the better of me. Ever just get tired of working on a piece and want it DONE?
I always did. To be exact, Coolmax, silk, or polypropelene. Not to mention a cup / supporter. However, I WASHED those every time!
Equipment racks are for pads and hockey pants.
Barry
The redwood won't sweat if you don't chase it before the kill.
Barry
That's the time to shut the shop down and go for a beer.
So, 24 hours later, how does it look?
Looks and feels just fine. There's one place though that seems a little sticky. Too much poly?
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