Once in ACC, does your vehicle go into Run mode when you tap to get out of ACC? And then you have to tap again to get out of Run mode?
Mine does. All the gauges move, the HVAC comes on, the lamp test runs, etc.
That's what I don't like.
Once in ACC, does your vehicle go into Run mode when you tap to get out of ACC? And then you have to tap again to get out of Run mode?
Mine does. All the gauges move, the HVAC comes on, the lamp test runs, etc.
That's what I don't like.
These vehicles have HD starters and upgraded batteries.
As far as it failing, no more likely than any vehicle simply stalling and causing issues.
You are over thinking it.
FWIW I don't care for the start stop feature at all but you get used to it.
A non issue. An engine has to set for quite some time before the oil will wash off of the bearings. Additionally the oil pumps are beefed up. My oil gauge indicates normal pressure instantaneously with start up. The oil is already every where in the engine and does not have to be redistributed.
HOW OLD are YOU?
With as little as I drive now the battery is not charged enough for the stop/start to work.
Sorry, when you said computers and touch screens I assumed you knew that the touch screen was not the only computer in a vehicle.
Regardless nearly all electrical components, window regulator motors, door lock actuators, AC controllers to name a few all have a chip of some sort.
Having been the service manager at an Olds dealership I can assure you that manual lever actuated controls had their issues too.
So in the 80's GM's "ECM" was short for Electronic Control Module. That computer monitored every electrical function, including simple lighting. If your vehicle has a catalytic converter, most likely you have some type of processor to measure O2.
If you have a vehicle built since 1980 you have electronics that you probably had no clue that they were there.
IF the battery is below a certain charge/voltage the engine does not stop.
Yes I learn the tolerance on the Ranger was 73% was the charge level needed for the Auto Stop/Start to work on it. Do not know what the charge level needed for the F 150 that replaced the Ranger.
Mine won't start without a foot on the brake. I can switch it to ACC but it won't start.
With my Gremlin, it was the starter, or more precisely the ring gear. It made it more like a roulette wheel. If it came up green, it would do is grind another pound of ring gear. I had to push the car far enough to expose the red or black teeth to go anywhere.
That's another nice thing electronics buys. No more starting when it's already running. ;-)
You're still of thinking '70s cars.
They didn't have a fix for customers who said "hell no!", either.
My ('13) truck isn't start/stop but has a weird "battery saving mode" that comes up on the center-stack display but I really don't understand what it does. It doesn't like my (Qi) phone charger or my GPS/backup camera display plugged in overnight (even not being used). Eventually it'll complain. Running it during the day doesn't seem to put enough back on the battery to keep it from complaining.
There is usually some magic and totally incomprehensible combination of button pushes and knob twisting that will disable the feature permanently.
He's a kid but drives his great-grandpappy's '38 DeSoto.
'90s cars didn't operate as you say yours do. Even back in the BT (before Trew) era, ignitions were locked out until the car was in PARK or the clutch depressed. Oh, and then there was the refusal to start as long as everyone in the front had their seat belt fastened. Federal DOT rules and all that.
'75 Darts *never* went strong, even new.
Hell, we just imported an army of them on H1Bs to do the work, then shipped them back when the work was done. Hundreds.
Air bags, backup cameras, running lights... .
On 7/15/2021 2:04 AM, Michael Trew wrote: Snip
So you prefer the issues you described above. Jeez!
That may be a mode that cuts back on excessive draw of the alternator and if battery voltage cannot keep up. Maybe like my iPhone in battery saving mode. Once a threshold is met the screen dims and a few other things happen.
From what I understand you disconnect a small lead connected directly to the battery. That apparently is what is telling the system what the voltage is and whether it is OK to stop the engine or not. And IIRC when you unplug that lead you get a warning of some sort indication a problem with voltage. BUT the engine no longer shuts off when stopped.
And for the button pushing, I thought I found it deep inside the instrument panel tabs. After several steps I found a setting to disable the auto stop feature. Unfortunately it works exactly like the button on the dash. It does not lock the setting after the engine is manually turned off.
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