The Opposite Of UHMW?

[Unisaw A100]

Here's the application. I have a jig that needs to sit on a work top. I don't want to clamp it down (slight over kill for the application) but I also don't want it to freely slide about.

The first candidate is the tape 3M sells for stair treads. The trouble is that it's abrasive and the work top is plastic laminate (will scratch up/look skanky quick).

So, what I'm looking for is a rubberized peel and stick tape or film. Think of the handles you find on some tools. It's rubbery and offers some *stickiness*. That's the stuff though the stickier the better. Size matters a wee bit but I could as easily use strips in lieu of full sheets. I would like it to be fairly thin (1/16" to 1/8") and not compress greatly under a load.

So, what are my options? Any chance of finding it locally (hardware store) or a place like McMaster-Carr? I would of course prefer local over ordering.

I know what I want, just don't know what it's called/what to ask for.

Thanking you in advance for your help but realizing this doesn't relieve me of a proper thanks at the end.

UA100

[David Radlin]

Go to

and search for "rubber and foam adhesive-backed".

Regarding tool wrap, you can get this at McMaster (search "Strip-Wrap Grips") but don't recommend it here.

Why not screw on some soft rubber feet? You can also find an assortment of these at McMaster, or probably at the local hardware strore.

Dave

[Tom]

How about the rubber pad that Sears sells to place under a workpiece while sanding or routing to keep the work from sliding around. Looks like it would work, maybe. It just lays in place, no adhesive.

[Joe C.]

Uni,

Don't know how big the base of your jig is, but what about dipping it in a shallow pan of the rubber coat that some folks use to coat the handles of their tools? Here's one I found, got to be many more. Course, this may be overkill for your application as well....

well, work wood,

Joe

[Rick]

3M spray adhesive from your Scary Sharp (TM) kit,

The ultra-thin double-sided tape (not the foam based) used by graphic artists (the dinosaur, pre-computer types),

Multiple suction cups and a little water. Fasten the cups to the bottom of the fixture, wet the cups and the surface, push down,

Rubber cement used in moderation. It will peel off the laminate ... and if you put a piece of lamnate on the bottom of your jig you shouldn't have removal issues,

Those 3M removable hooks with the pull-tab adhesive release. They come with extra adhesive strips,

That clear, semi-tacky snot some printers use to hold those mass-mailing things together. Your local print shop may know what it is and may be able to give you a small stash from their industrial-sized container,

Shellac. Dab a puddle, place fixture on puddle, let dry. Removal requires an application of alcohol. Again, laminate on the bottom of the fixture may well ease cleanup.

Hope this helps, and Happy New Year,

Rick

[Paul Kierstead]

High Friction Tape. A mail order source:

Probably wrong currency and wrapped.

Works wonderfully.

[Leon]

Rust-Oleum sells a textured rubber coating that you spray on, it comes in the typical spray paint can. I got mine at a Dollar Store. Specifically marked to spray on garden tool handles, hand tools, step ladder steps. Flexible and Waterproof

[igor]

[igor]

[snip]

What came to my mind is the rubber anti-slip peel-and-stick thingies you can put on the bottom of your bath tub. Depends on if you need complete, continuous coverage on the bottom or not. Also, if you find the material that you want but it is not peel-and-stick, IME there is a simple contact spray adhesive that will solve that problem. Even regular ol' rubber cement can work -- just use it like laminate adhesive (coat both sides, let dry, press together). FWIW -- Igor

[igor]

Damn! I paid like $12. That hurts.

[Pounds on Wood]

Think drafting board covering. Any graphic arts store should have it. I don't think it comes with adhesive backing though, I always put it down with double sided tape.

--

******** Bill Pounds

[Bob Schmall]

Keeter: Second the motion. You can also buy it in sheets for use as rug pads (see Drexel). It loses stickiness over time, but one sheet cut into strips will give you a few decades worth of use . I have a couple of 1/16 rubber mats used in offset printing. They're not sticky, but very stable and might give you just enough friction for the app. Ping me if this sounds workable.

Bob

[max]

You can buy neoprene in sheets. This stuff is what the router mats are made from. It is a soft rubber with tack. max

[Lawrence Wasserman]

I've used some non-slip pads like the kind that are sold for cabinets or under carpets (The latter are pretty much the same as the "router pads" sold for about 3X as much per sq ft). Glue them on the bottom of your jig with some 3M 77 or use carpet tape.

[Unisaw A100]

The last two words.

UA100

[Unisaw A100]

In the past I'd always seen these "tool dips" in magazine ads and I wondered about the cheese factor. Being this is Loctite brand...

UA100, who does have a brand loyalty to Loctite...

[Unisaw A100]

snippage..

I need it to PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) one side only. The other side isn't sticky in the glue sense of the word but sticky as in non-skid.

UA100

[Unisaw A100]

That's it Paul, but pricy (sorry Rob).

Even with the exchange rate...

sigh...

I suppose I better go buy the crow bar first, huh?

UA100

[Unisaw A100]

igor:

That's an idea, but does it come in Delta gray?

UA100

[Unisaw A100]

That's Borco. I know Borco. Believe me on this. The green side is forever burnt into my memory.

It's not sticky enough.

UA100, who try as he might could never get the curl out of Borco...