.. just got a *lot* more expensive.
The taps:
The announcement:
The Testing:
I hope they sell a million sets.
Go ahead and buy them, I'll continue to use regular metal taps, which work quite well. I never spin a shank, like he (I'll bet falsely claimed he did) . The hex shank is a negative. I would rather have a square for use in regular tap wrench if I decided to hand tap. The shanks are nice and long. and it looks like a quality tap. But I can buy the highest quality long reach metal taps for much less. So I'm sure they'll sell, just not to me.
but only if you buy them
i have watched some of the woodwhisper videos and i get a good laugh at all his gadgets and gizmos
seems he has a tool for every single task
lean toward the paul sellers style but i bet those folks that like buying stuff more than making it like the woodwhisper
And YOU.
Not to me either, I've found my 20 yr old set of these to be quite adequate for my occasional needs:
I thought that test was interesting, and clever, but it may not tell you all you need to know.
After I saw one of the Woodsperer's videos about tapping wood, I decided to give it a try. I had a set of Sixties-era taps that were my Dad's.
If I remember correctly, I did my own test, tapping a 1/4"x20 thread in some oak and then hitting the bolt with a hammer, and even a hand sledge. It was remarkable how strong it was. Armed with that information, I used some tapped holes in a jig I made. Now the jig was poplar, but it was fully an inch thick, and wouldn't be required to hold with extreme force.
I found though that after I had tightened and loosened the jig a bunch of times, the bolt felt looser in the threads. I think I could have stripped them if I tightened the bolt to my usual "tighter than necessary" degree.
I think I'll still make use of some wood threads from time to time, but if the application is going to require frequent loosening and tightening, I'll use another method.
that is the other thing
not sure i have seen threads in wood very often except in whimsical forms or artistic forms
croquet mallets come to mind but that is not a good solution and prefer a tapered shaft and glue
for kid toys it seems fine
I made wooden vise screws (1.5" diameter) and nuts for a workbench 15-20 years ago. It was cheaper than buying a metal vise. I've since replaced the front vise with a metal one, but the 2 end vises (lined up with the dogholes) are still in use and working fine.
have seen some real nice vices with wooden threads
It depends on the wood. I use soft wax when tapping wood. it helps avoid tearing the fibers, and seems to cut them better.
But yes, metal against wood will eventually wear down. Crappy metal threads more so then smooth threads, so the quality of the screw makes a difference.
I have been doing threads for years w/ no problems. I find it easier than inserts which I find to lift a dimple around the insert too many times. Even when pushing down hard in a drill press to keep the insert in straight and manually tapping it by hand in the drill press (belt off). I still use inserts too, so no hard rules.
the threads used in wood vices are typically a much coarser thread, similar to ACME...If I understand correctly the tapping that is being discussed is national coarse thread, ie 1/2-13, 1/4-20, etc, but please correct me if I am wrong...
They can be greatly hardened/strengthened by applying super glue to the threads then re-tapping.
and of course, coffee had not kicked in, or I would have corrected the spelling to "vises"
Me neither. It was relatively recently in my woodworking "career" that I discovered how strong wood could hold up with regular machine screw threads. I had read about it, but didn't fully believe it until I tried it. I think they often work better than threaded inserts they sell at the borgs.
My set is considerably older, but just as cheap. I have a few that I picked up from who knows where that are much higher quality, but the cheap stuff works OK for re-working threads and taping wood.
How can that be? Threaded inserts are, well, threaded into the wood, after all.
(Posted at end of numerous lines of extraneous text to conform to ignorance level of previous poster[s])
Threaded inserts are generally very short, with a few course threads, making them unstable and weak, while a tapped hole is the length of the screw and very stable. It's also easy to tap a hole in wood, just using a small tail-less drill and the tap.
And before you go all Krwnotreal on me, I said "I think" they "often" work better, not that no one should ever use a threaded insert...
Actually, some threaded inserts may be very short and have only a few coarse threads. Threaded inserts with coarse threads are generally intended to be used in soft woods and plywood. A bolt and or screw does not thread well into soft woods or plywood and last with repeated assembly and disassembles. I buy these things 20~50 at a time in lengths up to 1.25" long and they receive, in my case, 5/16" bolts. And FWIW I have never had one fail. I used 8 inserts and 8, 5/16"bolts to hold a commercial airplane display together. This display is used all around the world and is disassembled and reassembled for each convention that it is used at. I have been told that this display had been taken apart and reassembled about once a month for the past 4 years.
Naturally if you use the wrong part for a particular application it is likely to fail. By the same token if I had simply threaded the display with a tap and not use a threaded insert and bolted it together it would not have held up with 50 plus cycles.
Naturally.
I want to say acme. Wood tap/die units for brush instruments - shop brooms - are tapered.
Metal threads are typically to fine for wood. Some of the x8 or x4 are not far off.
Inserts fit into hard wood in a specific threaded hole.
Mart> >> >>
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.