Thanks to everyone for your information.
Stuart
Thanks to everyone for your information.
Stuart
My house has two heat pumps (2.5T and 3.5T, IIRC)[*]. No flicker. ;-)
[*] also allows two zones.
It doesn't "smooth out" the power but as others have mentioned, it will give you somewhat more power (and keep the motor cooler) because there is less drop in the wires (all assuming the same sized wiring).
It *can*, but likely won't. 1HP ~= 750W, assuming 100% efficiency. A 120V 30A circuit might be able to supply a 3HP motor, but it would be a waste of copper (#10 wire required). A 220V 20A circuit is almost always simpler and cheaper, all around.
Don't worry. Be happy.
It likely can be replaced, but since you're happy with the saw now there is little chance the "upgrade" would be worth the expense.
A bit of difference there! ;-)
For most, I think you're right on the money.
With a 16ga 120V line cord. ;-)
IME, if it's got a belt it's an induction motor, if not it's a universal. If it's *NOISY* it's a universal motor.
There are some exceptions to this; bench grinder, horizontal mortising/boring machine, hollow chisel mortiser, dust collector...
This one is pretty much guaranteed. Wailing like a banshee means universal.
Chris
Not really. Power is still Amps X Voltage (with phase angle considered for AC) regardless of whether it's a universal or induction motor.
The difference is in the marketing department of the manufacturer's sales organization. They like to claim as much power as they can get away with for their shop-vac. So, most of that hype comes from using the amperage drawn by the motor with the rotor locked - the absolute maximum the motor will draw. That amperage multiplied by the supply voltage gives a pseudo wattage value that can be converted to Horsepower at the rate of 746 watts per HP.
Now that's the power consumed (or in marketing terms, "Developed") by the motor under conditions in which it is actually producing no power at all. Mechanical Power = Torque X rotational velocity (with the proper units). So with rotation = 0, Power = 0.
That marketing approach to power ratings seems to be most often found in small universal motor applications, but I've also seen applications using induction motors emblazoned with such things a "7 HP Developed" and in much smaller lettering "3 HP Running".
But, it's all marketing hype, not something intrinsic to universal vs induction motors.
Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA
Sounds like the same approach used for cheap audio systems, especially the ones you attach to computers. You know, the ones that say 200W and are fed from a wall-wart the size of a matchbox.
And Monster Cable and K&N Air Filters.
All work miracles!
Sorta, except the audiophools are even more creative. They take the open circuit voltage times the short circuit current and give it a technical term lie "music power". If they are really creative they'll call it "RMS music power" or some other nonsensical term. It would be like measuring the rotor torque close to stall times the unloaded RPM.
krw wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.individual.net:
And they probably "measure" it playing a pure tone at the resonance frequency of the speaker.
Puckdropper
Nope. That would give a number that makes at least some sense.
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