no doubt this topic comes up once in a while
here is a variety
I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer
i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best
which style do you reach for
Electric Comet wrote in news:mpip2p$5nc$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
I've got two: One is simply a short 2x4 with a little tang on the back (simple and fast to make) and the other is a longish piece of plywood with a handle shaped like a handsaw handle.
I usually grab the 2x4 for thin cuts (I consider it extremely sacrificial) and the plywood for thicker cuts.
Puckdropper
It seems like I remember reading on this forum you could use a dead cat as a push block.
Is my memory faulty?
Im getting a malware security warning when trying to go to that site.
But What I use is one that will allow me to apply downward pressure as well as I push the work. I don't use a push stick that simply pushes and does not prevent the work from lifting on the back side of the blade.
i will try that but will glue a piece of sandpaper on the bottom just for better grip
i had no problems but i do use adblock
my plywood one does that
i think i made the push stick for cutting some small pieces
Chrome is giving me a netnanny warning on that site. Went into it on Linux and there is a nice collection of pushblock designs.
The links all go offsite. The ones that aren't broken I included below for anyone who is interested.
In answer to the original question though, it depends on what tool I'm using and what the setup is. Some of my setups have the stock completely controlled by featherboards or other supports and all the stick has to do is move it through the blade. For others more control is needed and I use various kinds depending on the particular cut.
Swingman wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
Mine is similar to that, except the handle goes the other way. I don't like the designs that put the hand in front of the notch pushing the board, because I think they can rotate around the front and lift the notch. I think the hand needs to be behind and above the notch so the line of force goes thru the notch into the board.
That's for the table saw. For the bandsaw and router table I just use any handy piece of scrap with a flat side. On the jointer I use push pads on top of the stock.
John
surprising that most links still work
someday i will try a featherboard i am not the safest person in the shop but i do take care high alert on the table saw and i usually cut myself with a chisel or some other surprising way
Electric Comet wrote in news:mpivt2$3hi$1 @dont-email.me:
The tang actually does the pushing. The length of the push stick allows me to put pressure away from the edge of the board to prevent lifting. No need for sandpaper.
If I need to hold the material against the fence at the same time I'm pushing through the blade, I usually use the rounded end of one push stick as a feather board and push with the other. I'm only using enough pressure to keep the material from wandering, not pushing it tight like you can with a feather board.
Puckdroper
And mine is similar to Swingmans except mine is shorter and the handle is more on top.
I have been using this design for about 16 years and this one is probably that old. I have a few as back ups. I made it out of 1/2" Baltic birch plywood so it does not weaken much as more of it gets cut away, in width. It is getting close to retirement.
An important aspect to this design is that I can apply quite a bit of pressure down on the board to prevent what you have described, the notch lifting. More importantly, that downward force helps to prevent the board/work from lifting as it passes the back side of the blade.
Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at you.
And mine is similar to Swingmans except mine is shorter and the handle is more on top.
I have been using this design for about 16 years and this one is probably that old. I have a few as back ups. I made it out of 1/2" Baltic birch plywood so it does not weaken much as more of it gets cut away, in width. It is getting close to retirement.
An important aspect to this design is that I can apply quite a bit of pressure down on the board to prevent what you have described, the notch lifting. More importantly, that downward force helps to prevent the board/work from lifting as it passes the back side of the blade.
Those push sticks that do not hold the work down scare the hell out of me. They keep your hands away from the blade but do nothing to keep the work from being lifted and thrown back at you.
I would advise you to get a couple of feather boards ASAP, they can really improve your cuts.
FWIW if you are ripping do not mount the feather board past the front cutting edge of the blade. You do not want the feather board pushing the waste side back into and pinching the blade. That ruins the waste side edge and could be dangerous.
If you are using a dado set and cutting a groove use feather boards in front of the blade and behind the blade. Since you are not making a through cut there will be no pinching. This also insures that longer cuts do not drift away from the fence after passing over the blade.
I would add that there is little excuse not to have featherboards available. They take a few minutes to make out of scrap and make many cuts just so much more _convenient_.
"J. Clarke" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:
Or you can *gasp* buy one. The one I bought is stackable, so I can use it as either 2 featherboards or one tall one. Nice for resawing.
Puckdropper
Leon wrote in news:55BD3B1B.1080500@swbelldotnet:
*snip*The closest I've ever been to a major accident on my table saw was caused by that style of push stick. It was homemade, but the same concept...
A safer push stick is super easy to build, or you can *gasp* buy one. (I'd avoid the "high tech" or mousepad style pushers for table saw use.)
Puckdropper
But "buy one" means that one can use "costs something" as an excuse not to use them.
I believe that was it. I am still using some of the advice from that thread ;-)
I have a couple fiberglass ones, one with a magnet in the handle. It's stuck to the side of the table, right next to the remote control for the dust collector (also stuck on with magnets). The other sits on top of the fence. I like them where they're handy (and I know where they are).
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