no doubt this topic comes up once in a while
here is a variety
I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer
i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best
which style do you reach for
I've got two: One is simply a short 2x4 with a little tang on the back
(simple and fast to make) and the other is a longish piece of plywood
with a handle shaped like a handsaw handle.
I usually grab the 2x4 for thin cuts (I consider it extremely
sacrificial) and the plywood for thicker cuts.
The tang actually does the pushing. The length of the push stick allows
me to put pressure away from the edge of the board to prevent lifting.
No need for sandpaper.
If I need to hold the material against the fence at the same time I'm
pushing through the blade, I usually use the rounded end of one push
stick as a feather board and push with the other. I'm only using enough
pressure to keep the material from wandering, not pushing it tight like
you can with a feather board.
Im getting a malware security warning when trying to go to that site.
But What I use is one that will allow me to apply downward pressure as
well as I push the work. I don't use a push stick that simply pushes
and does not prevent the work from lifting on the back side of the blade.
may not explain your alert but it does remind us that advertisers once
again prove that no one and nothing is beneath them
yes i am suggesting the alert you got was from an malicious advertiser
Chrome is giving me a netnanny warning on that site. Went into it on
Linux and there is a nice collection of pushblock designs.
The links all go offsite. The ones that aren't broken I included below
for anyone who is interested.
In answer to the original question though, it depends on what tool I'm
using and what the setup is. Some of my setups have the stock
completely controlled by featherboards or other supports and all the
stick has to do is move it through the blade. For others more control
is needed and I use various kinds depending on the particular cut.
I would advise you to get a couple of feather boards ASAP, they can
really improve your cuts.
FWIW if you are ripping do not mount the feather board past the front
cutting edge of the blade. You do not want the feather board pushing
the waste side back into and pinching the blade. That ruins the waste
side edge and could be dangerous.
If you are using a dado set and cutting a groove use feather boards in
front of the blade and behind the blade. Since you are not making a
through cut there will be no pinching. This also insures that longer
cuts do not drift away from the fence after passing over the blade.
Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in
Best idea is to do both. You can buy featherboards that will
lock into the miter gauge slots on the tablesaw, which makes
them very convenient to use; and make several more to clamp
to the router table or a fence or other places where there
isn't a slot.
Certainly once you've used them you realize how simple and
effective they are for controlling the work.
Yes they do, BUT not so well if the magnets happen to fall directly over
the miter slot, it is surprising how many times that happens to me.
Additionally the magnetic one that I use will not let a Gripper pass if
the Gripper is wider than the stock being cut and the stock is 3/4"
thick. I have to go to my wooden feather board which fits in the slot
and is less than 3/4" thick.
Someone sells long, steel miter slots inserts that lock into the slot
and bridge that gap for magnetic feather boards.
I'll have to find the link for these, I was going to get some but the
move made me forget.
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