In the countertop business, I deal a lot with plumbers and
electricians (Cooktops, garberators).
If it is a retrofit, my mantra is : "Breakfast on the old countertop,
dinner on the new one."
That means that all my stuff is in place as the plumber walks in. (My
insurance company prefers I use a licensed plumber, and I'm happy the
keep the extra premium in my pocket.)
Liability can be pretty serious as a leak can take out a guy's
electronics if his man-cave happens to be below the kitchen, etc.,
Sometimes, although seldom, something can happen. I say seldom because
I have worked with the same plumbers for well over 25 years.
IF something happens...like a dishwasher leaking, like Swing, I am
there within the hour and then I call the plumber.........:
personal appearance and insuring that they know that I can stand in
them if necessary ... even then I will generally stop by myself
the service call just to make sure the job is done to my
THAT you can take to the bank.
THAT is what gets you a 90+% referral rate. The other 10% find me
through my website.
THAT is what whoops everybody's ass that tries to muscle into my
....and a fair price. Not cheap. Fair.
Normally I wouldn't personally touch something like that with a 10'
pole, but recently, on a kitchen Leon and I built and installed, I ran
across a situation where the kitchen Island propane cooktop, and
telescoping downdraft vent, bought by the client from two different
online sources (AND *two different brands* to boot!), needed to be
installed, and, for a myriad of reasons, with no one to do the job on time.
Decided to bite the bullet and do it myself, which, besides the usual
installation of the units, entailed moving the regulator on the cooktop
unit(GE) to make room in the cabinet for the downdraft vent unit
(Frigidaire) ... I am not a plumber, don't play one on TV, and hate
anything to do with "pipes" in general.
Looking ahead, and before I would even let the client back in the house
for the night, I scheduled the propane gas company to do a "disconnect"
in the morning, and then, after conveniently finishing the job, a
"reconnect" in the afternoon (the lines had already been pressure tested).
Neither of which was remotely necessary.
However, a gas "connection" in an unincorporated area requires a safety
inspection of all gas appliances/installations, which meant,
coincidentally, that _my_ work would undergo a rigorous safety check for
proper installation, connections, and leak test ... all done under the
umbrella of their state license and liability insurance.
Sometimes, you do what ya gotta do to skin the particular cat ....
Notice that those guys who were cheap during this last building boom are
now shoe merchants or ribbon clerks ...
I'm curious as to what item you are referring to.
Answering as a consumer, not a builder:
In the case of appliances, I'd call the manufacturer or his dealer or
authorized service center, not the builder.
If a door was not working properly, I'd call the builder.
Refrigerator or heater, I'd expect same day or next day service. Dishwasher
or non critical appliance, 3 to 5 days. Other problems, such as the door
sticking or window not going up, a week would be acceptable. Same with one
toilet in a four bathroom house, but if it is the only toilet, get here
If I was having a house built, I'd be choosing the appliances anyway, not
the builder. I can assure you 99% of builders would not choose what I'd
Good to know.
There is a Sears appliance outlet center not far from me. Do you know
anything about the outlet appliances. I know they are good prices there. I
assume that the quality would be the same as the other appliances, right?
Any way, I thought I would ask. Maybe you heard something.
We also have a Sears appliance outlet nearby. The appliances sold there are
identical to the models sold in the retail stores, except that most of them
have varying degrees of cosmetic damage. Presumably it's the same at all Sears
AAMOF, we bought our own Kenmore dual fuel range from a Sears outlet center.
It was a "scratch and dent" item.
The "scratch" was that the bottom drawer slide was off on one side and
apparently no one but a woodworker knows how to put side mounted drawers
It's been 8 years and still haven't located the "dent".
Saved well over $1k on the appliance.
I would not hesitate to go for it, with common sense, of course.
Year 10 for an all stainless Kitchenaid, not a single problem Washes
stuff clean, clean, clean.
Prior to that, a single-knobbed Maytag which, by best estimate, was
about 20 years old. Was replaced for cosmetic and acoustic reasons.
Yeah our KitchenAid was a top of the line $1200 unit but it simply left the
dishes dirty, with a film on them. When we went back to the Whirlpool we
got clean dishes again.
We work our DW pretty hard, it always at least goes through the pot scrubber
cycle or higher and there is not any such thing as prerinse in our house.
Yeah, Maytag is supposed to be good. I can't say if it was the dishwasher
or the goobers who brought it in to set it up. I'm not sure, but I pretty
much remember that turning the box upside down and letting the water from
the factory testing flood the interior of the dishwasher [and my floor] in
not standard setup procedure. It's very likely that their action got water
in the controls and screwed something up. Or it's possible this is an
infant failure. Phone calls to both Maytag and the HD delivery number were
highly unsatisfying -- Maytag said they'd get to it Jan 6, HD delivery folks
could send someone out Jan 7. Called the local HD who sold it and spoke to
the manager there, she was much better at listening and agreed that this was
not right. Given that I called within a 48 hour window of installation, she
made arrangements to have the dishwasher replaced. However, that won't
happen until the 7'th either. In the meantime, as I pondered my options
looking at how much effort would be required to uninstall and just return
the darned thing, I found the schematic and troubleshooting guide on the
inner side of the kick panel. You should never give an electrical engineer
a schematic. :-) I found the part that talked about "blinking lights",
followed the troubleshooting guide and opened the console, reseating the
connector for the control box. After plugging in the dishwasher, no more
blinking lights. I was able to get it to run and at least get the load out
of the dishwasher. Told the HD manager this when she called me to tell me
she was going to get a replacement for us. I also told her I was not
comfortable that this was *the* solution -- she agreed and agreed that
replacement is still a good idea. Good news is that we aren't going to be
handwashing dishes for the next week while they get their act together.
Also told her I don't want the same bozos delivering this time that did the
original one and told her why. She agreed to work with the delivery company
to make sure that doesn't happen. In addition to turning the thing on its
head, they left a mess from both the old and new dishwasher drips. I just
stopped one of them from running the old dishwasher on his handtruck,
dripping water and leaving black wheel marks across my living room carpet
and got him turned around to go through the garage, a mere 10 feet from the
IMO, this whole thing was and is, completely unacceptable. I understand
having staff booked up. But if you screw something up and it fails to work,
it is NOT acceptable that a 1 week delay with additional inconvenience for
the customer be incurred. That becomes your problem and remedying it NOW is
your highest priority -- you need to figure out how to fix it ASAP, not when
it fits in the schedule. Needless to say, this customer is not delighted.
/whoa. Rant off
This replaced a GE dishwasher that was probably close to 20 years old (it
was in the house when we bought it 10 years ago and appears to have been the
original DW. The GE had its motor replaced about 4 years ago but other
parts were falling apart. The door counterbalance cables had come broken
and the upper rack mechanisms were breaking. It was time to be replaced.
There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage
On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 11:43:14 -0700, the infamous Mark & Juanita
Yeah, Maytag, Sears, Minwhacked, Thompson's Waterseal, Yugo...
Great marketing, for awhile, then the real rep catches up.
My brand new Made-by-Maytag MagicChef washer died a couple weeks into
its life, the motor letting the magic smoke out. When the guy came to
replace it, he swung a leg up on top of the dryer to reach back and
unplug the washer, as I'd done on many a washer/dryer in my years as
an owner. Just before he left, he was buffing the top of the dryer
when I saw the fresh dent. "They sure dont' make 'em like they used
to." we said, as he took the number to send for a replacement lid.
Sex is Evil, Evil is Sin, Sin is Forgiven.
Gee, ain't religion GREAT?
Well, if you can open some of those clamshells with a set of car keys
you are a better man than I am! I had the privilege of trying to open
a flashlight from Costco on Christmas. I tried getting through the
plastic with my pocketknife - a very nice high-end knife with an
ats-34 blade sharpened to a shaving sharp - and I could barely force
the point through the plastic. After messing around with it for a
while until I started worrying about slipping and removing limbs I
finally went to the shop for the aircraft snips. That stuff was so
tough it would have snapped any car key you tried to force through it.
Clamshell packaging is of the devil, I say!
My laptop knows me too well - it just announced "your battery is low!"
I'll check it out. Thanks for the heads up.
I am not sure that would have worked on this thing though. It was very
thick and solid. The padlock was locked around a heavy chunk of plastic. I
was trying to free the keys so I could unlock the padlock. I think that is
why the key hole is on the side. It allowed for this kind of packaging.
There was some kind of plastic fastener or rivet holding the keys in
position in their own little holder. It took several cuts just to free the
keys. Once the keys were free though, it was a simple matter to unlock the
padlock and remove it.
When I think about it, you have a design that is wholly determined by
packaging. It looks pretty hanging there in the store. The safety hazards
to open it or the ability to put the key on a normal key ring was
unimportant to them. Another case of marketing getting in the way of
function and safety.
I also find it significant that there are lots of three and four padlocks
in one package. And very few singles in this size. They run sales on the
singles. Those disappear fast. And folks show up wanting to get a single and
having to buy multiple locks because they are out of the singles.
Do you ever get the feeling that you get screwed everytime you go to that
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