The last coat of finish on my son's ash bed has been curing since last Thursday
of T&T Varnish Oil) and then it will be ready for waxing with carnauba and
I've read here and elsewhere about guys applying the wax with 0000 steel wool.
What is the
advantage of this technique, if any, compared to waxing with the usual cotton
He doesn't know I built it yet - it'll be a great surprise when he comes up to
I do this on wood turnings while on the lathe. A few coats of shellac. Buff
it with 0000 wool. Apply paste wax with same steel wool, then buff with a
soft cloth. Repeat a few times. The finish is beautiful!
She's got tools, and she knows how to use them.
"Bob Bowles" < email@example.com> wrote in message
Only time I've seen wax applied with steel wool was when it was the ONLY
finish being applied (wax on raw wood).
Would seem to be the hard way to do it when you're just looking for a
protective coat over an already well applied finish.
I used this technique on a pine stool, as part of the following process. The
whole process outlined
below produced a pleasingly warm lustre, but as I'm a bit of a newbie I can't
say how much that was
down to applying the wax with 0000 steel wool.
1) Sand to 240 grit
2) Apply 2 light coats of stain with Liberon "Palette Wood Dye" ("Antique Pine"
with a foam brush and wiped off with a soft clean cotton rag.
3) Apply 1 thin coat of Liberon sanding sealer
4) Sand with 320 grit
5) Applied 2 coats of wax (carnauba/bees mix) along grain with 0000 steel wool,
each coat with a stockinette rag after allowing the coat to dry for a couple of
The really nice thing about the wax, apart from the lustre, is the smell - makes
you want to stay in
The only places where the finish is a bit dodgy are where I either didn't sand
well enough in step
1, or where invisible PVA glue splodges were highlighted by the palette wood
dye. Luckily all of
these "added character highlights" are in pretty inconspicuous places, so the
piece wasn't ruined.
You live and learn.
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