How to Apply the Last Coat of Poly for a Dining Table Top?

I would like to know a good way to apply the last coat of poly on a dining table top.

I am almost done with re-finishing the dining table top. I have painted many coats of poly, and sanded it many times. Now, the table top is very smooth. After I have applied a coat of poly with a natural bristle brush or a foam brush, I find that the surface in general is very smooth -- but there are too many little bubbles. Using a rag is better; but I still get enough bubbles that I want something better. Spraying poly from a spray can is good; but the surface feels very grainy, not glossy smooth at all.

What should I do?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Jay Chan

Reply to
jaykchan
Loading thread data ...

Have you considered a wipe-on poly? Try thinning your poly 50/50 and wiping it on with a lint-free rag or paper towel. The goal is a VERY thin rubbed-in coat, almost like an oil finish.

Reply to
DJ Delorie

Thin the poly and let it stand for a while before applying (time for the bubbles to rise). I've had good success with the Wooster foam brushes.

After a day or three, you can rub out the inevitable minor imperfections with some combination of:

  • 0000 steel wool
  • Wet sanding. Maybe 600 grit all the way to 1500-2000
  • Pummice stone and then rotten stone
  • Automotive rubbing compound and then automotive polishing compound

I like the effect that I get with 0000 steel wool which is quick and easy. That should be totally smooth but not very shiny. If you want a high gloss you'll have to try some of the other options.

In any event, I think you'll get to desired state of perfection by rubbing, and rubbing... The degree of glossiness will be determined by what material(s) you choose to use for that rubbing.

Reply to
Malcolm Hoar

I was in Paxton Lumber yesterday (local hardwood dealer) and I overheard the sales rep on the phone talking to a noob. He told him that poly should never be used on furniture, only on floors...

I thought that was a strange thing to tell a customer...

Reply to
Locutus

Hmmm... I prefer floor-grade poly on my furniture, too. I figure, anything designed to be walked on can stand some abuse.

Reply to
DJ Delorie

Try Gymseal once, and you'll ditch poly forever.

Reply to
B A R R Y

I had tiny bubbles in my dried poly. I looked through a jewelers magnifying loupe. Yup, bubbles. Thought it might be sand or dirt, or dust. They were half in and half out, but I could neither brush them out or sand them out. I am sure that there are scientific words, and a possible explanation and solution. I don't have them. I could not block sand the bubble in half, without destroying the surrounding area. And subsequent coats would have same anyways. It would have left concave half pitts if sanding was possible. so there they are. Too deep to ignore, and not raised enough to even half fix!! Don't know what I did wrong or not right. it was inside of drawers, and the right finish, so what are you gonna do.

I personally think the only solution is not to get them in the first place. I used a new purdy brush, probably coated the brush with solvent and ficked off. May have forgot, not sure. Don't think I thinned first or any coat (3) because the can does not mention it. It was spar, not hard type cause I had it already.

I can only guess that a little thinner may have been the solution. And maybe not in the order of 10% which may be too much. Could be as low as 1%. I think experimentation is in order. I think this applies to all coats, and don't know if more thinner on the first coat as primer is needed, whether or not the can says so. NB i did poly outdoors once in high temp and very high humidity, and the water got right into the finish and it went white, like milk paint. Next tiem, snaded down, not to wood, and it was gone, gone. I think you could tell you had sanded it all out. Yes it was that dramatic.

For arguments sake, has anybody done a descent job of poly with w/ a brush, or foam without bubbles. Simple ya, na is sufficient. If speciically so, was it thinner, and how much?

Reply to
bent

Dito that. The Wooster foam brushes are remarkable good for this.

Reply to
Leon

Was that the Paxton near Denver, CO? They really have a huge supply of exotic woods. W W

Reply to
Warren Weber

Yes, oil based poly, thinned quite a bit (maybe 20%) and a foam brush. Finished with 0000 steel wool and a little wax. Actually, it was Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane.

No bubble problems visible to the naked eye.

Reply to
Malcolm Hoar

No, the one in Cincinnati Ohio. Great place for good wood.

Reply to
Locutus

Thanks for the suggestion of thinning the poly first. I tried that once. But I didn't wait for the bubbles to go away before using the mixture. I should have waited long enough for the bubbles to rise. Next time, I will wait (may be half a day).

Also thanks for the tips of the way to remove the last bits of imprefection. I will use various fine grit sandpaper to sand the surface down, and rub the surface with automotive rubbing compound and then automotive polishing compound. I didn't know that I could use automotive stuffs on kitchen table. Thanks.

Which grid of sandpaper do you recommend? I already have 400 grit and

600 grit sandpaper. Would you recommend me to sand in this sequence: 400-grit, 600-grit, 1000-grit, 1500-grit

Jay Chan

Reply to
jaykchan

I'd start with 600 grit. However, I think you'll need wet and dry paper (if you don't already have it). You will need to use it wet too. I'd probably try mineral spirits rather than water. Obviously, you'll want to allow a few days for the poly to cure fully (esp. during this colder time of year).

Whatever abrasive you use, go very, very gently. You're not trying to remove a whole bunch of material here -- just smooth and polish the topmost surface.

With a little common sense and a lot of care, you should be able to achieve a really beautiful finish.

Reply to
Malcolm Hoar

Knock the last coat down with 1000 or 1200 grit paper. Don't be afraid to wet sand. Use a sanding block and take it down until you have an evenly scuffed surface - no shiny spots. The shiny spots will be low points. Once you have the surface flat (in both senses of the word), use automotive rubbing compound and buff it back up to the desired level of shine. If you use a medium cut compound you should bring the 1200 grit scratches up with little effort. For a deep, clear, bright shine follow this up with a fine cut buffing compound.

You can get these rubbing/buffing compounds at any automotive paint supplier or at many automotive parts stores.

Reply to
Mike Marlow

I would not use 600 grit at the point - it's too coarse for the work at hand and will leave scratches too deep. At this point 1200 should be all that is necessary. 600 is a tooth providing grit and should not be used in the process of bringing up finishes.

Reply to
Mike Marlow

I spread poly straight up with foam pads. The thing with poly is to spread it, not paint it. Work poly at all and you introduce air bubbles. I pull it as evenly as I possibly can across the piece and then I flatten it with

1200 or so and buff back to the shine I want.
Reply to
Mike Marlow

Jeff Jewitt described application of Sherwin Williams Fast Dry Oil Based Varnish using Viva paper towels in FWW a couple of years ago. The Viva towels are smooth and don't leave a pattern in the finish. A

1:1 mix of varnish and Naptha, flashes off faster, us>
Reply to
nospambob

Thanks for the suggestion of using wipe-on-poly. I have just finished putting the first coat of wipe-on-poly on the dining table top. It looks good -- no bubble; but I am putting the wipe-on-poly a bit too thin. I will put on the second coat a bit thicker, and I am sure the result will be even better.

Last time when I tried thinning poly with thinner, I still got bubbles. I probably didn't thin it enough. The wipe-on-poly from the can is already properly thinned. That is the reason why it works fine this time; but didn't work last time when I thinned the poly myself.

Wipe-on-poly is great. But now I understand why people want to rub the finish instead of relying on wipe-on-poly. Soon after I have put on the wipe-on-poly, I start seeing a few dusts landing on the wet surface. Sigh... Having said this, I will stick with wipe-on-poly for now instead of rubbing the finish. The reason is that I need to have the table ready for X'mas dinner. If I wanted to rub-in the finish, I would need to wait one month for the poly to completely hardened before I can start rubbing in order to achieve a high gloss finish (according to a book on wood finishing). I don't have one month to wait. Anyway, after a few years of hard use by my kids, I am sure I will need to refinish the dining table. At that time, I will try rubbing the finish.

Thanks again for the many good suggestions people have offered here.

Jay Chan

Reply to
jaykchan

Reply to
nospambob

No such thing. Try 2-3 coats if you think it's "not enough".

Nope, way too thick, and you're probably still wiping it on, not rubbing it on.

50/50 ?

Not thin enough. When I do wipe on poly, the coat is so thin it's almost dry when I'm done rubbing (like oil, you wipe off any excess, then rub the remainder in until it's dry-ish). It takes 10 coats to get a sufficient finish, and even that "looks" thin when I'm all done.

Note that when I say "rubbing" I mean... what I do is dip a corner of a folded paper towel into the poly, and rub the towel over the wood. I rub firmly - I'm definitely rubbing the poly into the grain, not just wiping a layer of poly on. This physical rubbing is what avoids the bubbles, not just the thinness of the poly.

I don't mean I'm polishing the coats after they dry. I never do that.

Reply to
DJ Delorie

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.