On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 10:34:30 -0700, Bob Schmall wrote
So let me get this straight..
I have always used 0000 steel wool _followed_ with some Johnson wax.
Are you using the wool _with_ the wax?
BTW, the wife always giggles when I show her my can of Johnson wax 8^)
1. The serious side: I use the 0000 alone, followed by paste wax applied
with 0000. You could use the wax applied with a soft cloth just as well.
2.The other side: I just did a mass mailing for a club. One of the
addressees lives on Short Johnson Road.
There are two reasons for for sanding between coats. One is to improve
adhesion. The other is to level the surface as you build up the film.
Some poly's have a recoat period where sanding is not required. How much you
want to level the surface depends entirely on what you want to finish with.
And, that's exactly what you didn't say. IOW, what look do you want to end
with? For a low gloss finish without filled grain, I sand after the seal to
remove wood nibs, then just use a hand scraper between coats to cut any
imperfections. The final coat gives about a 1200 grit sheen and isn't touched.
Course, if you want to end up with something else, then you do something else.
For instance, to get filled grain and a 20000+ grit "piano" finish, I'd sand
to level between most coats, then rub out the final coat.
So, if what you end up with looks like what you want, leave it alone. If too
shiny, then sand it down. However, other noted steel wool. Fine on oil based
poly; not good on water base, even after dried. Pieces of iron will remain,
and unless fully cured (30 days) some water will remain, or you may want to
recoat in the future.
I don't use water based poly, but have been using "synthetic" steel wool, which
I really like..
Washable/reusable, not rust, no particles of steel left, etc...
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