I need to replace the rubber/leather straps that support a chair and 2
couches. Since there are so many of them to do, I can justify a new
stapler. The current
straps are about 1 inch wide and are stapled to the frame. The
staples appear to be a heavy guage about 3/8 inch wide and 1/2 inch
deep. Any idea who make such a beast? I can use electric or air.
You probably cannot go wrong as long as you stick with air operated. Go
electric and it's going to be iffy at best.
If this is to be you only foreseeable need for the gun I'd go with the
Harbor Freight model.
I got the Harbor Freight model and like it a lot. The price was right too.
It was on sale for 15.95. The staples cost me 5 bucks. It was a large box
and should last me for years. Check it out it does not look like a piece of
junk.The quality of it is surprisingly well made.
Do you have a need for the stapler beyond this job.
Since you are not in the mass production furniture business why not use a
tack strip over the straps and just screw the tack strip down.
Save the money for a tool you really will use a lot.
You can'r have enough hammers or clamps.....
I have a Senco SFW10, about $125, for doing upholstery. When in
school, other students, who were not going to professionally work in
upholstery, used the Harbor Freight models and they worked just fine.
It's the cheap staples you have to be careful of.
With regard to the replacement straps: You may want to consider
replacing the straps with jute webbing - a 3-1/2" wide, thick burlap
type weave band, specifically for spring and other base support on
many kinds of furniture. I'm not familiar with rubber or leather
strap supports. I have seen narrow elastic type supports, but not for
spring or base type supporting.
Staple one end, with a 3/4" to 1" tag extending past the staple line.
Fold the tag over the initial staple line and staple the tag on top of
the initial staple line. Tighten, very tight, the strap across the
furniture bottom and staple the other end. Cut the webbing, leaving
another tag, then fold this tag back over itself and staple again.
Weave the straps, over and under successive crossing straps, as you
install them. Tighten the webbing almost as tight as you can, when
installing them, but don't break the woodwork. Often times, jute
webbing is installed with the strips pretty much adjacent to one
another..... the weaving of the strips may dictate a need for spacing
them a little, up to 1" spacing. If you have any coil springs
involved in the re-installation, use hog ringers to attach the springs
to the webbing.... at least 3, preferrably 4, points of attachment per
spring. If you don't have hog ringers readily available, twist tie
(on the spring side of the webbing) with a large paper clip and snip
off the excess end tags.
Jute webbing may be purchased at your local fabric shop. Dust cover,
if applicable, may be purchased, there, too. Blue stripped jute
webbing is for backrest support and red stripped is for seat support.
Do you have a pneumatic stapler of any size? If not, I'd get a 1/4"/
18g narrow crown stapler that shoots lengths from 3/8" to 1 1/2".
This is a great all-around stapler to have in the shop. It's good for
jig-making and especially for holding plywood parts together while the
glue sets or you drive in screws.
WRT the original staples, if they are heavy gauge like you said,
they're probably a less common size that's used in the commercial
upholstery/furniture trades. You could find it (google) but I think
it would probably shoot a much more limited range of staple lengths
that wouldn't be much used outside of this one specific application
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