First, yes, I've Googled it - for days.
1. I've never used a plane.
2. I've read a few books on planes and I know that they are sharp.
3. I have the combination of of my g-g-grandfather's plane and a small
job that would seem best handled with a plane.
I have a Stanley 129 that is not in new condition; but then it's
pushing a hundred years old and was in daily use in its time.
While the critical components look wonderful, the plane would not
fetch the prices I've seen listed for the model (that's aside from
I cannot achieve shavings - only sawdust. I think I must not setting it
up correctly. There's an adjustment / positioning lever behind the
blade that I don't know exactly what to do with. There's a picture showing
The second picture on the right gives the best view.
When moved, it changes the blade angle. However, when the frog is
tightened, it moves, so I'm thinking you start with it one position, then
move it to the other limit to lock.
Can anyone tell me how to properly set the adjustable part or anything
else about setting up this plane?
This is a transistional plane -- the generation between the wooden
plane and the "modern" metal sole plane.
The key feature for this is the adjuster that allows the blade to be
raised and lowered without the use of a hammer of some sort -- one
source referes to this as a "Bailey" adjuster, but it's not the same
mechanism as most of us identify as a Bailey: a brass knob on a
threaded post (see http://tinyurl.com/3w6lrwl -- note the middle plane
shows the later clamp system, but doesn't show the adjuster as shown at
Here's a better web resource from Patrick's Blood amd Gore:
I have two larger (and marginally later) versions of this plane with
the knob adjuster. With a sharpened blade and a flattened sole, these
do work well. Remember, if you flatten the sole, raise the blade but
leave it under tension and remove as little material as possible.
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