Stanley 129 plane setup question

[Joe]

First, yes, I've Googled it - for days.

1. I've never used a plane.
2. I've read a few books on planes and I know that they are sharp.
3. I have the combination of of my g-g-grandfather's plane and a small job that would seem best handled with a plane. I have a Stanley 129 that is not in new condition; but then it's pushing a hundred years old and was in daily use in its time. While the critical components look wonderful, the plane would not fetch the prices I've seen listed for the model (that's aside from sentimental value). I cannot achieve shavings - only sawdust. I think I must not setting it up correctly. There's an adjustment / positioning lever behind the blade that I don't know exactly what to do with. There's a picture showing it at: . When moved, it changes the blade angle. However, when the frog is tightened, it moves, so I'm thinking you start with it one position, then move it to the other limit to lock. Can anyone tell me how to properly set the adjustable part or anything else about setting up this plane? Thanks.

[Zz Yzx]

Link no good.

[Tim W]

----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe >"

ey/129/StanleyNo.129Plane4-Big.jpg .

The link is fine it just needs pasting back together.

A full lesson in using an old plane is just not something that you will get from usenet in plain text.

If you are trying to make shavings there are two critical things to get right:

A sharp blade - without which you will acheive nothing The depth of cut - look down the length of the sole of the plane and adjust to see the blade as a thin black line protruding from the sole.

More than that here and now would be pointless and confusing, except perhaps to say press down on the front as you make your stroke. Good luck. A strong arm and a sharp blade and you will not be going far wrong.

Tim W

[Swingman]

On 6/5/2011 11:21 AM, Joe

[Larry Jaques]

[Joe]

Thank you Tim and Swingman for the info. I'd already worked my way through The Handplane Book - Garrett Hack and Making & Mastering Wood Planes - Finck before I decided to bother you guys. Everything seems good except how to use the adjustment - that's got me stymied. I'll keep working on it. Sooner or later I've got to hit the right sequence. Thank you (and still soliciting info).

----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe >"

ey/129/StanleyNo.129Plane4-Big.jpg .

The link is fine it just needs pasting back together. A full lesson in using an old plane is just not something that you will get from usenet in plain text. If you are trying to make shavings there are two critical things to get right: A sharp blade - without which you will acheive nothing The depth of cut - look down the length of the sole of the plane and adjust to see the blade as a thin black line protruding from the sole. More than that here and now would be pointless and confusing, except perhaps to say press down on the front as you make your stroke. Good luck. A strong arm and a sharp blade and you will not be going far wrong. Tim W

------------->

Garrett Hack's _The Handplane Book_ is also excellent.

Tools: Their Ways and Workings_ by Aldren A. Watson Olde time tool talk. new, used, or borrow a copy from the local library, Joe!

-- Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills. -- Minna Thomas Antrim

[RicodJour]

On Jun 5, 12:21=A0pm, Joe

The 129 is a transitional plane and does not operate like your rank and file Stanley bench plane. Your plane is similar to this:

'm not as familiar with the transitional planes - I own a couple, but I have never used one. Still, something's getting lost in the translation. The adjusting lever should move the blade up and down along the frog - changing the depth of cut, not changing the blade angle, so I'm not quite sure what you have going on. You didn't mention sharpening the blade - how sharp is it? The sawdust thing is odd if you have a sharp blade.

Take some pictures of how you have it set up, from top and bottom, and of the iron/chip breaker by itself, and post them on a free hosting site and post the links back here.

R

[Larry Jaques]

On 06 Jun 2011 02:30:35 GMT, Joe Making & Mastering Wood Planes - Finck before I decided to bother you guys.

Then why dincha -say- so?

Make sure you aren't inverting the blade. Some go bevel up, some down. And make sure you fully understand the term Scary Sharp(tm). Sharp enough to shave with is downright -dull- compared to Scary.

Powder usually indicates dull. Wispy, 1-sided shavings indicate Scary.

-- Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills. -- Minna Thomas Antrim

[Joe]

Thanks for replying, RicodJour. Lots of good ideas. Of course, the hardest is describing 'sharp'. I sharpened to 1200 grit and stopped. That could very well be where to start over. The sole is reasonably flat (no light under a straigtedge), which is good since as a family 'heirloom' I wouldn't pursue sanding it down. Thanks for pointing out the Oct 96 AWW article. Good write-up. With the frog loosened, I see how the blade retracts. I hadn't considered this. If you have to loosen the frog to retract the blade just to go to to lunch, you've lost any fine tuning done. One more try sharpening before pulling out the catalog. Thought it would be fun to use g-g-grandfather's plane for a little project, but have learned a lot in the process. Pictures will be posted shortly in a.b.pictures.woodworking. All file names start with Stanley 129. I don't have the blade quite square in the pix. Thanks again.

---------------------

Take some pictures of how you have it set up, from top and bottom, and of the iron/chip breaker by itself, and post them on a free hosting site and post the links back here.

[Scott Lurndal]

Joe Making & Mastering Wood Planes - Finck before I decided to bother you guys.

The adjustment lever on a liberty bell transitional like yours is raised with a finger to extend or retract the blade. As pointed out earlier, it doesn't change the angle of the blade, but rather just the depth of cut.

Note that with transitionals, the sole is often no longer flat.

The #129 Liberty Bell Fore plane has an odd blade extention and retraction mechanism. There is a small tab which extends through the blade from the cap iron (there should be a hex nut on the cap iron side). The tab fits into the corresponding slot in the adjustment mechanism at the back of the frog. The level to the right of the handle (looking from the rear) moves the slot, which engages the tab and alters the depth of the blade.

Look to make sure the tab is there and is engaged properly with the mating slot in the depth adjustment mechanism. When adjusted properly, light finger pressure on the lever will raise or lower the blade.

Make it sharp! If you're producing dust, it is likely that your back isn't flat or the cutting edge is rounded.

Blade should be mounted bevel down.

scott