Stanley/Bailey plane question

[Mike S.]

We went to a auction this evening and among other things I won the bid on a Stanley/Bailey plane. It seems to be in decent shape, except the blade which looks like they tried to plane nails with it. The base has some rust but not to bad. On the front of it below the knob it says Bailey # 4. Hoping someone can suggest where to get a replacement blade and info or a link to a site that would explain what the different # of planes are used for. Thanks, Mike

[no(SPAM)vasys]

Information on Stanley hand planes can be found at:

blade may only need to be sharpened. You can try the "Scary Sharp" system:

you do need a new blade I suggest getting a Hock blade from Ron Hock:

[Toller]

$47 for a blade? Crummy Baileys with sound blades go for $5 at garage sales. Is the Hock blade all that much better?

[bridgerfafc]

Ron Hock blades have a loyal following. they also have a few vocal critics. the main points go like this: his blades are harder and thicker than the stock blade. this allows them to hold an edge longer and have less vibration than a stock blade. they also have a sort of blacksmithish look to them, a bit less polished and and requiring a bit more time in the initial setup than some other blades on the market.

or so I gather from what I read. I've never used one.

[Buster]

I have two old stanleys that I use, a #5 and a #7. I have the original blade from the #5, but needed to replace the #7. I replaced it with a Hock. Gives great results, and I have no regrets about the cost of the replacement. What is $47 when the blade should last another 50 years like the one in the #5?

All that being said the blade in the #5 is sound and I have no intention of replacing it.

[Nate Perkins]

"Toller" wrote in news:5Pi5f.10293$cg.1012 @news02.roc.ny:

Yes, it is that much better. The extra thickness prevents blade flex and chatter, and on many planes it adds the thickness you need to really close up the throat.

[George]

Now you have to decide whether you want high-carbon or A2. I have an old high carbon, and it's great, but all the new stuff seems to favor A2.

Fettle that frog and mouth carefully and there won't be a rattle left in the plane. Start here

[Dave Hall]

I once found a Hock blade on extremely deep discount at Woodcraft (regularly in the $50 range for $9). Anyhow, thinking it was the right size for my Miller Falls Jointer (equivalent to a #6) I bought it. Took it home to find it was too large and was for a #8. What to do - of course, buy a #8...so I got an 8C on ebay that had a good original blade. Scary sharpened both the Stanley and the Hock blades, finishing them both on a 6000 waterstone. The Hock looks and feels more substantial, but in use I don't see any real difference. Probably don't have the experience to say which holds its edge better, but no difference that I can see in chatter.

Dave Hall

[John Girouard]

This isn't really answering your question, but here's a couple of links I found useful when I first started acquiring planes.

-John

[no(SPAM)vasys]

Close. From Ron's web site.

"2" (fits #4 & #5-Style Planes) #BP200 $37.50"

[skimhoff]

[CW]

Yes.

[CW]

The blades he makes himself are unfinished from heat treat. Since the buisiness has grown, they contract out many, if not most, of the blade making to a, I believe, French company. Those are fully surface ground after heat treat. I have three and all are ground. I get mine at the local Rockler. All Hock blades they carry are fully ground.

[fredfighter]

Stanley "Sweetheart" cutters, the ones with the heart-shaped emblem are prized. They were laminated, the cutters were low-carbon steel with a thin layer of high carbon steel below the holes. That means when honing them, most of the metal being removed is the softer material so they hone faster.

The Hock blades are thicker, which should make them more resistant to chatter, but a well-tuned older (WWII or earlier) Stanley/Bailley with a sweetheart blade won't chatter anyhow.