I'm refurbishing an old Stanley 10 1/2 plane and need to temporarily remove the
lateral lever from the frog. There are some
irregularities on the frog surface that could be corrected much more conveniently if
the lever were not in the way. Can anyone
advise me on the method used to attach the lever. Or, more to the point, how to
remove the lever without damaging the frog?
Since the lever rotates on the pin, it appears that the pivot pin is a small
interference fit in the frog and a peened over
clearance fit in the lever. If the pivot pin is simply a straight pin, I should be
able to drift it out of the frog from the bottom.
However if it has a small head on the underside of the frog, that would be a
counter-productive approach. The frog is quite thin in
this area, and I have no desire to break the top off the frog with any over-exuberant
Alternately, I could grind of the peened head on the lever side and remove the lever.
That might require fabricating a new pen which
may, or may not, be a trivial task.
Incidentally, the frog assembly on this plane is very similar, if not identical to
the frog on a type 5, 6, 7, or 8 Stanley Bailey
#3. The plane is being cleaned and refurbished as a user. Although I would like to
keep the plane as close to original as practical,
the intent is to have a good user plane. I am indifferent to any "collector value"
the plane might have or retain.
So, anybody have
Wichita, KS USA
Carefully grind or file off the peened over pin end on the backside of
the frog, then push the pin out. Do your lapping/surface grinding of
the frog. Replace the pin later with a mild steel pin and peen it
over. You'll want to make some sort of cradle or jig for the frog in
order to support it and protect from snapping it. An incident of that
sort is known in my biz as, "having a bad day."
Did I mention you should be very very careful?
If you do bust it, a #5 or #4 frog of similar vintage will work in
it's place. DAMHIKT.
On 5 Jul 2004 17:16:55 -0700, email@example.com (Patrick Olguin) wrote:
Thanks, Frank and O'Deen. The lever and frog have been separated, and the frog (so
far) is still in one piece.
This is the first time I've tried removing the lateral adj. lever on several planes
that I've refurbished. But the frog surface on
this one was too bad to just let go. Had planned to just use the flat plate and
sandpaper technique to level out the plane bed. But
it looks like some places are so low that flattening would leave the top part of the
frog too thin. So, I'm trying to build up those
sections with some metal filled epoxy first. We'll see how it goes.
Thanks again, Guys.
Wichita, KS USA
I have a mint- Bailey #4 type 19, perfectly useable and it has never even
been tuned, last year made was '61 so it is older than ME ('64)! The pin
on it's frog is not even peened-over so I guess I would use pin-punch
with light tapping. But the face of the frog does need to be lapped, very
crude grinding. as far as the lever-cap there is that lower edge that is
down towards the cutter edge, is also very (somewhat) crude, should it
also be lapped to even flatness?
To paraphrase Patrick Henry, in this 4th of July season, "I know not what others may
say, but as for me, can't hurt, might help."
According to Garrett Hack's _The Handplane Book_, "... lightly lap or flat-file the
bed (the surface the iron lies on) to take out
any burrs and check that it is reasonably true and flat." In compliance with that
statement, I would stroke the frog across a piece
of sandpaper, ala "Scary Sharp", several times and observe whether or not there is
any significant indication of areas that are out
of plane. The key words are "_reasonably_ true and flat". If the shiny parts are
fairly evenly distributed, I wouldn't go any
further. Otherwise, pop off the lateral lever and put some elbow grease into lapping
the bed until you do have a good, even
distribution of shiny spots. The goal is to get good, evenly distributed support for
the iron. It should not be necessary to work
the entire bed to a mirror finish.
As far as bench planes are concerned, the lever-cap doesn't make direct contact with
the iron. That distinction is reserved for the
cap iron. Therefore your tuning activities should be concentrated on the cap iron
rather than the lever-cap. As long as the
lever-cap makes good contact with the cap iron across the entire width, that should
Wichita, KS USA
That's excellent, thanks. You made perfect sense, and I'll have to get that book!
I did buy a nice flat peice of rectangular marble from an antique slash old-stuff
store along with a peice of float glass 18x18x3/4", 'a-la-scary sharp'!
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.