Speaking Of Trim Work...How To Remove?

He's got a "multifunction tool" by which I assume something along the lines of a Multimaster. The round blade in one of those should cut the molding as you describe with no smoke.

Put down a layer of blue tape and a couple of layers of duct tape on top of that to protect the floor (the blue tape to make for easy peel-off later, the duct tape to provide a wear layer) and the multitool with a circular offset blade should be able to cut flush without damaging the floor.

I would advise practicing this technique on a surface that doesn't matter first--not enough tape and you'll wear through the tape before the cut's done, and if you get careless you can go through any amount of tape fairly quickly.

This is the kind of blade I have in mind

1. I'm joking around with you.
2. I wouldn't "suggest" they did, but I would bring up the fact that it is shorter than normal and make sure they knew they have the option. Most will just say "pffft! I don't care about that." But I have two or three regular clients who come to mind who it would drive nuts and they'd probably suggest it before I would.

One in particular could see that one set of curtains was hanging 1/8" higher from the floor than the other and wasn't satisfied until I adjusted them. That's fine with me. I have that kind of eye, too, so I know it would bug me sitting there all evening and seeing it if it was my home.

I like that idea for masking tape/duct tape. I'm going to remember that.

There's no need for a flush cut in this application, so I'd avoid the risk of scratching the floor by making the cut an an angle so the tool/blade isn't touching the floor.

Do you have a table saw? Make it pay the rent for the space it occupies. 12 feet should take less than 3 minutes of cutting and 2 minutes of setup. THen it will look good when you are done. If you cut the old board at a consistent angle as I suggested, adjust the saw to match and glue the new piece to the old part left behind the flooring and single nail the trim to the wall.

Which was also my suggestion. A jig would make it consistent so you can match the angle when you rip the new trim - making a nicetight glue joint when you install the replacement.

That's what shoe molding is for. :-)

leave the bit behind the linoleum in place just cut horizontal

then install new trim above that

if the linoleum is glued to that trim then you open a can of worms when you damage the linoleum

Lotta good suggestions already. You can also wiggle a thin wide putty knif e down behind the trim and then drive a dull wood screw through the trim in to the knife to pull it away from the wall. This can help prevent cracking the drywall. I think Lee Valley makes a dedicated trim removal tool now, too.

JP

Explain to me why your suggestion is better/easier/faster than mine.

Yours:

Mine:

I can't think of one reason why I would use your method over mine. Please explain.

Less chance of damaging the floor or wall, for starters. You don't say how tight the luian is to the trim. If it is tifht to the trim and the trim is tight to the wall, noving the bottom of the trim without affecting either wall or floor (or both) COULD be problematic.

Also, depending on the nails you MAY go through several MF blades, which frommyexperience are not particularly a)cheap, and b) durable.

If it doesn't work "according to plan" you have a mess on your hands. My way you are pretty much guaranteed no surprises and a neet, consistent result when you are finished.

It's your job, and your choice, but you asked for suggestions how to do the job better.

I've told you how "I" would do it.

Now you know why. Your choice

If I screw up a job I have my wife to answer to - so I try to do things as well as possible - with as little chance of a screw-up as possible.

I still have my scalp!!!

If you use my pry-bar method you don't have to cut the trim in half and it'll tear the trim away from the nails, leaving manageable leftovers to remove. And it's pretty fast.

Yes use a 7 inch pry bar as a splitting wedge and twist. You can use a piece of luan to protect the vinyl flooring. But he has a Multi tool and he want to use it, so his plan is good with me.

Okay we can now continue with the suggestions.

If you go back and read my OP, I said that I've already removed a 3 foot section by cutting the nails. All I was asking for was an easier way to get to the nails. Implication: I can get to the nails which indicates that there is room to move the trim away from the wall.

Unless there is a seam at the glue joint that needs to be filled, sanded, etc. I'd be at the mercy of the cut, the wall, and other factors as to whether that 12' glue joint is neat and consistent. No thanks.

No, I asked for suggestions how to the job *easier*. You gotta admit, your way sure isn't easier.

That's where you and I differ - twice.

More like 12-18inch. I offered a fast solution. We can continue with the slower ones... fine with me. :-)

All that really matters is this:

I was "late" for work this morning 'cuz the game was tight until the very end (no pun intended). It's a good thing I'm free to set my own work schedule.

Luckily the Gold medal game is at 1:00PM EST on Saturday. I can take a break from the trim work to watch Team USA go for the gold.

With all of these detailed solutions,,,,,, I'm surprised some one has not yet mentioned to remove the house, but leave the molding. Reminds me of the old automotive cure for a broken down vehicle. Jack up the radiator cap and drive a new car underneath. :~)

Around here it was "does the horn work?" "jack up the horn and put a new car under it"

And if we had a real clunker "Paint it red and put air horns on it and send it to Quebec" Generally reserved for the ones where the horn DIDN'T work - - - -

That was in the late sixties / early seventies.

A while back "head transplants" were in the news. Wouldn't they have more properly been called "body transplants"? After the surgery, who is the patient?

Back in high school a "head transplant" is what we called a stoner who transferred in from a different school.