Speaking Of Trim Work...How To Remove?

[DerbyDad03]

Well, it is made of wood so...

I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.

I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.

Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)

[-MIKE-]

First thing I would try is pounding a wonderbar into the trim at the floor and prying it up. It'll either pull the nails, or split the trim at the nail lines, leaving you with the result of using your oscillating tool to rip it.

Before prying it up, I'd trying removing any nails at the top of the trim, first. There are several ways to do this. Advise available if needed. :-)

[Leon]

If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.

[Clare Snyder]

Someone took a shortcut and now you are paying for it. The shoe base should have been removed before the luan was laid - and to do it RIGHT should be removed before laying new linoleum or vinyl flooring

If you can find the nails, punch them through. Then the trim almost falls off. I'm assuming it is fastened with finishing nails.

[Sonny]

The wonder bar I'm familiar with is kinna large. How about a Hyde pry bar? They are great for removing small window trim, also. I have 2, used in tandem when prying trim.

Sonny

[DerbyDad03]

I know where the nails are. As soon as I rip up the linoleum and luan I'll be able to punch the bottom ones through. ;-)

[DerbyDad03]

It's...

Thanks for restating the problem.

I'll be able to find the nails as soon as I rip up the linoleum and luan.

[DerbyDad03]

Plaster over horizontal gypsum board. I'd rather not pound if I don't have to and since there other options, I'll use a more gentle approach.

But I like the noise. ;-)

Yep, that's easy. Once I pry the top of the show base back, the nails are easy to cut with the MF tool. They are actually too long to come out of the wall before the bottom of the moulding begins to push on the vinyl floor.

(I know I said linoleum, but I meant vinyl)

Oh, I'm sure of that! ;-)

[-MIKE-]

[DerbyDad03]

-1

Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the finish floor.

[-MIKE-]

Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar. It's not rocket surgery.

[DerbyDad03]

I know...I was just commenting on the "punch the nails through" suggestion. That won't work for me.

Like I said in my OP...I have no doubt that I can get it out, I've already done some. Just having fun looking for options. Too late to do any actual work here in the eastern time zone. ;-)

[Clare Snyder]

[-MIKE-]

Bullshit! The women's hockey team is still playing for the Gold! You can watch tat while you're working. :-p

[Clare Snyder]

There is another simple way to do it, after you do a bit of more difficult work. Make a jig to hold your 4" angle grinder at a shallow angle to cut the base just proud of the vinyl flooring, with the cut-off wheel pointing just slightly down. It will make a bit of wood-smoke, but it will leave a nice smooth surface to set your nrw molding on. Perhaps one of the new mini circular saw blades will fit on the grinder to make coarser sawdust and less smoke - - -

[DerbyDad03]

I'm waiting till 6AM to watch Team USA, aka Team Shuster, out-Curl Team Canada - again.

[DerbyDad03]

...and then rip the shoe base since it needs to be the same height as the shoe base it's going to butt up to further along the wall...shoe base that is not going to be removed. I think I'll pass on that idea.

[-MIKE-]

I don't know what you mean by "shoe base," but Clare has a good idea, there. If you're replacing 3-1/2" baseboard with 3-1/2" baseboard, then you could rip the existing base flush with the new finished flooring and install new base on top.

You don't need shoe molding unless there's "something to hide." Meaning, a gap between the finished flooring and the wall/baseboard, or a wavy horizontal line in the finished floor that created dips that the baseboard can't follow.

[DerbyDad03]

Shoe base, as far as I tought, is one of many types of baseboard. Maybe I'm using the wrong term. Like I said it's late. ;-) (Bedtime after this.)

This is what I am dealing with:

Easier/safer to rip the existing "baseboard" on the wall, cut the bottom nails and slip in a new piece. It'll line up evenly with the existing baseboard that won't be removed.

Like I said, I'll get it out and probably in less than an hour. Certainly in less time than cutting the existing flush and ripping the new.

[-MIKE-]

That's fine if you're ok with baseboard that looks too short. :-p But hey, people gave up caring about scale and perspective long ago, so that's cool.