| > 300 pounds of torque is plenty, from however many volts it comes from. I | > am | > not out to make efficiency test ratings. | | Sure 300 is plenty of torque, but why lug around a larger battery pack that | weights 50 % more weight for more power. | | Besides, if 18V DeWalt delivers | > 400lbs of torque, is it really that significant? | | 1/3 more significant. Do you see a difference between a 75 and a 100 watt | light bulb when comparing the light brightness?
If 75W bulb is sufficient for my needs, who cares? More to the point, if we agree that 300 pounds of torque is enough for just about any kind of house project, then why pay double for something I won't need?
| | >
| > | My "12 volt" Makita | > | drill has 310 in/lbs with about 50% less battery weight and my Makita | > 1/4" | > | hex impact driver delivers 1100 in/lbs. I got both with a charger and | > 2, | > | 2.6 amp batteries for $197. | >
| > So here is my question: Within 300lbs torque range, is it not better to go | > with higher voltage? | | Not necessirially. All thing s being equal higher voltage equates to longer | run time providing battery amperage is equal. I read a test comparison on | 14.4 volt drills and the Skil has a battery that was rated at 1.2 amp. That | is the type number you would have expected 12 to 14 years ago. Most all the | drill inthe test had 2.0 amp or better. Some were 3.0 amp. Also with | higher voltage you carry more weight. This may not seem significant if you | use the drill for a few holes per month, but used daily or weekly it may get | old real fast. Also larger batteries are inherently prone to fail fooner | than smaller battery packs. More cells insulating inner cells holds heat | and heat is the enemy to a battery.
For the difference in price, I can get an extra pair if Skil batteries. Sound like a deal to me...
I read somewher that you get most bang for a buck in 9.6 batteries, for the reasons you described.
| | | | > | What in particular | > | > make this drill inferior to Makitas, DeWalts, PCs etc.? | > | | > | Lack of Quality and the guts to make it last for years of every day use. | >
| > Sorry, this is too general for me. That's why I asked "in | > particular"...What | > aspect of quality? Chuck? | | The Skil chuck gets a poor rating in drill tests. The 14.4 volt model | started slipping when torque reached 100 in/lbs. The Skil run time was poor | compared to others. It out performed Ryobi and Craftsman, but it was | behind the other 16 brands. And typically other brand drills produced 50 to | al most 100% more torque than the Skil.
I used a 12V Ryobi R10510 to build my 12x16ft deck. Worked like a champ, driving effotlessly hundreds of 2 3/4 inch screws. Bateries died after 5 years, but hey, Ryobi is also classified as el cheapo brand
| | I see as much plastic on most of DeWalts. Gears? No plastic gears on a | DeWalt.
I was talking about a chuck.
| Hitachi uses plastic gears. | I | > think Skil makes them similar to the others, no? | | Maybe only in size and appearance. Compare how they work and you will se | the diferences. | | | They do offer 2 year | > warranty as compared to DeWalt's one year. | | Hyundai offers 10 years, Honda offers 3 years. Would I choose Hundai over | Honda? Noooo.
Really? I know quite a few folks who would choose Hyundai Sonata over Honda Civic given the similar price range. No doubt Honda has better overall reputation, but that doesn't mean every Honda wouold be preferred over every Hyundai.
| Again you wanted an opinion. You got it.
I appreciate it. Thanks.