See http://imgur.com/vOn2O4S .
It's a very simple cabinet; not a face-frame design.
I just want to build a cabinet where the drawer rests on runners and is
held in place side-to-side by the cabinet case itself. It seems that it
should work as designed, but somehow it seems "too easy" when I compare
it to other cabinets I've seen.
On Mon, 26 May 2014 15:48:56 +0000 (UTC), firstname.lastname@example.org (Edward A.
There are three problems, I see.
First, the sliding surfaces will wear. It would probably be good to
make them out of something like Ash or Ironwood. ;-) If you can
somehow make one mating surface sacrificial, it might be a good idea.
The drawers will only be good for about 1/2 draw. After the COG goes
forward of the middle of the runners the wear on the front corner of
the runner (and the mating surface of the drawer) will wear
excessively. If they're pulled all the way out (without support at
the front) the runners may be damaged. Of course this can be a
minimal problem if these drawers are never heavily loaded. I prefer
at least 3/4 draw on all drawers, if not full extension (or more),
Without "stretchers" (side to side pieces in the middle, holding the
sides parallel), the sides may bow outward causing the runners to bind
or slip off track. Again, this may be a minimal problem if the
drawers are never heavily loaded. Ours always seem to be, though.
For what usage? A zillion chests and such have been built that way for
centuries; it's important to fit well, of course. A _little_ taper to
the back can help.
Alternatives include use a side runner that fits in a rabbet along the
The comment on tipping is pretty easily handled by including a surface
above so that it has a running surface there, too, with just a little
clearance so the tipping isn't too great.
As far as the choice, poplar is quite soft, I'd suggest a harder wood.
A newer alternative there (and one I've used on several older pieces
including the dining room buffet here that has one full-width drawer on
the top; nearly 5-ft I'd guess) is to use a piece of the stick-on UHMD
plastic as a wear strip and friction-reducer.
Now, as a kitchen cabinet, maybe not so much, but you didn't say...
I love fir...it's only obtainable here any more by special order at
astronomical prices. Almost 15 yr ago now, shortly after returned to
the farm here after the sojourn (like Mr Van Winkle of 30 yr) in VA and
TN, asked the kid working in the local lumber yard for some fir--he
didn't even know what it was. In the loft of the barn from 50 yr ago
now are some 20-ft 2x12 and 2x10's left over from building a set of bins
for a small feed mill. I can't bring myself to touch 'em... :)
Anyway, "hard" vs "soft" here only has to do w/ the hardness, not the
genus classification. For a small vanity side drawer, the weight isn't
going to be enough that the poplar would likely be ok for a long time,
too. I was thinking heavier than that...
On Mon, 26 May 2014 17:28:42 +0000 (UTC), email@example.com (Edward A.
Yes, runners (in slots) are a good idea too. That doesn't address the
wear issue but it will solve some of the tilt problem. The
sacrificial member was what I was getting at, though. I hate building
anything that can't be repaired.
I'd beef the stretchers up substantially. Remember, that's end grain
they're attaching to the sides with. Really think about the joinery.
...or you could make it a solid panel (plywood, etc.) to eliminate the
There was a time I would have said "AMEN", but that was then
and this is now.
Just had an oil and filter change.
Cost $24.00 including tax and proper disposal of old oil.
An air filter was $15 + tax by itself.
These days plug wires are designed for 100,000 miles of
service per Toyota.
Aftermarket wires are another matter.
Around here the wires cost more than the labor to change them.
At these prices, do it yourself offers no advantage.
Last oil change I did was on my '91 Regal. It was a real PITA and I've
paid to have it done since. I've been paying about $32.
Not on everything. My car is a turbo and plugs should be changed at
48,000. On older engines, it was a 15 minute job to change 4 or 6
plugs. I'm sure it will be considerably more time on a car where the
plugs are not even visible. Don't know yet if I'll DIY as I've not
looked seriously yet. 10K miles to go.
I know some cars you have to loosen a motor mount and jack the engine,
others require pulling a wheel so you can go from a wheel well with 2
extensions and a U joint. Not at all like my flathead Merc pr a Chevy
Buick never expected the car owner to do their own maintenance. That
filter is hard to get to. In fairness to Buick, they do build a good
car, why can't the rest of GM manage that?
The Regals were supposed to be like that, but I had little trouble with
my '95 Regal. I don't mind the extra work so much as the replacement
intervals are lengthy.
What I don't like are cars that don't ever seem to get fixed right,
particularly when I wind up being the fallback when the shop fails.
Most Buick owners probably would not open the hood. As for them
building a good car, my last one was a POS that I ended up giving away.
I was a GM buyer for years, but GM pissed me off enough that I've not
bought one since my '01 LeSabre and won't ever again.
The 36,000 mile warranty was up after 18 months of driving and it was
down hill after that. The list of things that fell apart is very long.
To be completely fair, spark plugs don't need to be replaced very
often. I don't even remember replacing them on my last vehicle. Oil
filters, well, you have a point. I bet you just love interference
On 5/26/2014 7:38 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
If the filter is not changed at the oil change the oil will immediately
look dirtier than the new oil. The filters typically hold 1/8 to 1/5 of
the oil that is in the engine. That old oil never really drains out of
the filter if it is left on the vehicle.
Besides that, I have probably changed the oil on a couple hundred
different vehicles. The the vehicle up on the lift makes all the
difference in the world in how accessible the filter is.
Subaru dealer told my wife it was $173.80 (I just looked at it) to
replace 4 spark plugs. No-sirree-Bob!
Also, $42 for the light over the license plate and $92 for a cabin air
filter, and numerous other "suggestions".
Some who doesn't own a set of wrenches is at a real disadvantage these days.
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