OK, this is one that has got me pretty much stumped, although I suppose I could make an accurate guess and be safe.
For a standard kitchen cabinet installation, what length of full-extension drawer slide is commonly used? I don't have full extension slides in my kitchen, so I have no way to measure. I assume for a 24" deep cabinet, you use 22" slides? Or are the 24" designation slides for 24" cabinets? Any ideas before I buy a bunch of slides that are either too short or too long?
I never built a kitchen cabinet, but I just finished a router table. The inside depth is 20.25 with 20" deep drawers and I bought and installed 20" full extension slides. I assume that the proper length is approximately equal to the depth of the drawer.
When I get my digital camera back (SWMBO lent it to a friend) I will post some pics.
-- Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
Hi Jon,
Since you index the install of the slide of the drawer opening, the only thing you have to ensure is that the slide will fit from the front of the opening backward (i.e. you can live with a short slide, but not a slide that is too long).
I usually leave some room for error and get a slide that is one size shorter than the nominal length of the drawer. So, for your situation I would suggest the 22" drawer slide. You don't want to overdo it (i.e. get a 16" drawer slide for a 24" drawer), as this is the entire support system for the drawer. A few inches of unsupported drawer won't be a big deal.
Mike
I'm working on 24" base cabinets right now (for the shop, not kitchen). I chose to use 22" slides, but I will still build the drawers as long as I can, probably about 23". So the full extension slides will actually not quite expose all of the drawer. Doesn't bother me at all.
The answer to your question would also depend on whether you have face frames or frameless cabinets. You cannot get a 24" slide into a face frame carcase. In fact, my 24" frameless cabinets are only 23-3/4" deep.
The depth of your cabinet is the overriding consideration. You can put a longer, or shorter, slide on a drawer and it will work fine as long as the difference is not too great, but you are definitely limited by the cabinet depth, (less the face frame if you use them), for the slide length. ;>)
I used 22" slides for all my 24" deep cabinets.
Face frame cabinets with side mount slides? If so, take note of the following, if not disregard.
Design the cabinets so that there is 1/2" between the cabinet sides and the sides of drawer opening as defined by the edge of the face frame.
Then mount your drawer slides on a 1/2" thick secondary material (poplar works well), then attach that assembly to the cabinet sides, using precut spacers for vertical accuracy. This will insure that your drawer slides are flush with the drawer opening.
Additionally, with most side mount drawer slides, you design your drawers exactly 1" narrower than the drawer opening, but be sure to check on this clearance dimension for your particular slides _before_ you make your drawers.
Sounds like a good approach.
I did just as you suggested on a Secretary Desk I recently completed. I had 3/4" instead of 1/2" between the drawer opening and the cabinet side and used 3/4" secondary material to mount the slides on.
-- Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
had 3/4" instead of 1/2" between the drawer opening and the
That works ... as you well know, prior planning is the key to having an _easy_ time of mounting drawers in kitchen cabinets ... and by the time you get to that stage, EASY is what you're looking for. :)
Doing 19 drawers in my own kitchen cabinets, and many more besides since then, I made a little jig for mounting the drawer slides on the secondary material ... it comes in handy for consistent placement of the drawer slide with regard to the face frame, and for insuring they are square ... both critical components of EASY installation.
I will be glad to post a picture to ABPW if Jon requests it.
depends on how your cabinet is constructed. the slide length number is the length of the slide, not the cabinet. I generally build 'em to loose 1" at the back (1/4" nailer + 1/4" panel) and 3/4" at the front (face frame) which would give 22-1/4" inside of a 24" cabinet. in that case I'd build 22" drawers and use 22" slides.
it's not uncommon for the cabinets to be some size other than 24" though. get a tape measure and see what size the inside of your cabinets really are.... Bridger
oops. that should have been 3/4" nailer + 1/4" back panel.
sorry about that. carry on now....
I for one, would love to see it (hanging drawers isn't second nature yet for me).
Actually, Swingman, a wise old wRECk veteran recommended to me that you should allow for 1 1/16" total for the slides (17/32" per slide instead of 1/2"). That gives you 1/32" per side to adjust the slide or add shims should the carcase be off a little. I tried it, it works, and I'll never go back. :-)
Thanks Keeter...
Actually, Rick, I've heard that before, but have not needed to practice it. providing you make your drawers accurately, a 1/32nd on either side is not usually a problem as there is at least that much slop on most slides on each side.
AAMOF, it might be just my luck, but I've yet to have to add shims by going by what the specs on the drawer slide called for. More often, I've had to shave a bit off the secondary wood, which would have made made matters worse adding the 1/16th.
Just my experience. ;>)
that's the way I do it too. 'course I'm not a woodworking veteran, but it works for me. shooting for a drawer 1" narrower than the opening when you are using prefinished baltic birch is cutting it too close. I go shoot for 1-1/32 narrower so that I don't' have to shave anything down. The KV slides I use barely have 1/16" leeway.
dave
Rick Chamberla> In article , snipped-for-privacy@nospam.com says... >
It's not a bad idea if you are NOT using face frame construction, to add the
1/16th and make your drawer slightly narrower than required.However, on face frame cabinets, which is what I posted about, it is much easier to me to 'shave' than to 'shim' ... particularly in 1/32" increments. Therefore, I would prefer to go with the drawer slide manufacturer's recommendation, and NOT make the drawer narrower.
I'm in the process of replacing the drawers in my kitchen cabinets. My cabinets are face frame construction and are 24" deep. I bought the Accuride (Series 3832) 22" slides. For face frame construction Accuride's use a "Face Frame Kit" which consists for clip on mounting brackets for the front and back of each slide. The rear bracket is length adjustable from approx. 0"- 2".
See:
I've worked in shops where the standard was 20" and I've worked in shops where the standard was 22".
UA100
Yes, I'd like to see it.
While I may not go the Grizzly approach another poster mentioned, I'll most likely get my slides either from eBay or from Rockler, and get Rockler's JIG-IT guide. I figure, for a whole kitchen (almost 50 feet of base cabinets, mostly drawers), a few extra bucks on materials and tools offsets the cost of buying the cabinets premade.
FWIW, I am building my cabinets modular-style, 30" and 24" widths, I have an open plan that doesn't require odd sizes. They will all be face-frame, inset doors and drawers, modified shaker-style.
Thanks for all the replies.
Jon
Jon,
Another option is GlideRite. They're an import slide like Grizzly, but quite inexpensive and really quite good for the money.
I liked to spec 22" slides with a 1" overtravel. If you don't go for the overtravel slide, you really don't have full access to the drawer box.
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret) Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet Website:
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