Is there a reason the drawer slides ( accuride type ball bearing slides) are
attached to the middle of the drawer sides instead of the bottom. Is this a
personal preference or a load bearing issue? Maybe a carry over from methods
when using wooden slides? Looks to me like it would be a lot easier to align
the drawers by placing the slides on the bottom of the sides. Most
woodworking shows and the books I have looked at show them placed in the
middle. I have not built any drawers yet but am getting ready to make some
Any information on the placing of the slide portion to get correct alignment
would be appreciated too
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The center position works better in a shop that uses line boring
equipment as part of their 32mm work. For small shops that don't use
the production equipment it really doesn't matter.
I prefer using the bottom mount, because I usually dovetail the
drawers and want to see as much of the result as possible (without
recourse to the more expensive undermount slides).
Accuride used to have a template available for downloading from their
Like Tom said it is more personal preference than any thing. I prefer the
middle mount route as I find it easier to position the drawers themselves.
If I may add something about full extension slides. On the drawer side
hardware put the slide 3/32 back from the front of your drawer and your
cabinet side hardware flush with the face of your cabinet.You will find that
your drawer closes better and your gap between the carcass and your drawer
front is already set also you will no longer require bumpers for stops. You
will also have a nice quality solid feel when you close your drawers because
the slides already have a bumper built into them at the rear of the cabinet
I prefer to mount the slide on the bottom of the drawer as it is much
quicker to set the slide and drawer on a flat surface and use the surface
for alignment. Placing the slide any where else on the side requires a jig
or a tape measure. If you do use the bottom of the drawer however you need
to allow for the drawer to be shorter for those instances when the drawer
height is close to the opening height as the bottom mounted slide will lift
the drawer off the opening bottom 1/4" or more.
Keep in mind also that bottom mounting may situate the mounting screws such
that they go in to the drawer bottom dado and may not hold as well. Caution
should be used when determining the location of the drawer bottom.
Thanks for all the information from everyone that replied. Looks like it is
a matter of personal preference, but Leon mentioned to be careful the screws
on the drawer mount slide do not go into the dado at the bottom of the side
rails for the drawer bottom.
I had not thought of that and will watch for it.
On the drawers I have built, I make the dado slightly higher in order
to allow the screws to engage the wood without going through the dado.
I put the dado 3/8" above the bottom and used 3/8" long screws (the
slide provides the margin. Downside is you do lose some interior
I'm a sick puppy. I like making more work for myself.
I have a set of drawers I need to make as wide as possible in a 24" deep hole.
I'm using 3/4 poplar for sides with a 3/8 dado in which to recess the slides and
appropriate relief (if needed) routed in for the unlatching levers. The 1/8 the
slide would protrude from the drawer side would be for gap between the cabinet
stile and flush face. I figure a 24" hole, 22" slide and 20" (or 18") drawer
will allow a sufficient setback from the front to not interfere with the visual
of the dovetail fronts, to get acceptable extension and use the built in stops
for the flush faces.
Why do I hurt myself like this? The cabinets themselves are unnecessarily
complicated. And getting worse.
Mark check out the link these slides are the undermounts I use they do not
extend below the drawer and are perfect for showing dovetails. You do not
even see the slide with these ones.
http://www.blum.com/group/en/03/03/04/index.jsp ;jsessionid 00omfJ-k3YKo7c4zmkcx0zMKO:-1
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