I am getting ready to replace the wood doors on my shed. I am going
with the same materials, except I am chainging the hinges.
I am replacing this style hinge (not exact match but close)...
(Amazon.com product link shortened)12955567&sr=1-7&keywords=stanley+t+hinges
With this style hinge (looks like photo)...
(Amazon.com product link shortened)12955492&sr=1-14&keywords=t+hinges
Instead of screwing the hinges in place, I plan to bolt them in place.
Currently there are three hinges on each of the two doors, which
brings up a question ... Can I go with two hinges or do I still need
three per door?
Originally I was going to replace the enitre doorway with a double
steel door/frame but the price of the door alone would triple the
cost. Instead I opted to replace with same wood but lose some of the
decorative cross members (water seeps in too much) and better hinges.
I think once it is primed, painted and caulked, it should last longer
than the originals, which have lasted 19 years.
I am also replacing the hasp and inner door bolt-lock with slightly
heavier and longer galvanized versions. The original cheap bolt-lock
was never really long or strong enough to keep the one door closed.
Any other tips or suggestions welcome. I want this to last me at least
another ten years and I think the rest of the shed can do that easily.
On Friday, October 10, 2014 10:53:17 AM UTC-5, Casper wrote:
I'm supposing you are making/building your new (double?) doors & frame.
Any good quality hinge is recommended. You would need to gauge, for yourse
lf, the weight of the doors, as to how many hinges would be best. Maybe, p
ut two on, then if you find a third is necessary, add an additional, later.
As for as water entering the shed, build your framing as you would a home's
entrance: Good sound door stops, a good heavy duty sloped threshold, mayb
e some weather stripping, appropriately flash/seal the installation of the
frame to the rough wall, etc. Caulk well under the threshold. Since, I su
ppose, you are removing the old framing/threshold (maybe exposing the floor
framing, under neath), make sure the floor joists/supports are up to par,
solid, etc.... i.e., do a good inspection of the supports and flooring, whi
le you're at it. Has any of that gotten wet, in the past, and may be needi
ng some maintenance or additional support?
I suspect it depends on how big the shed, and the size of the doors.
I have a 10 X 12' shed with 4X8 finished plywood panels on a 2 X 4 frame.
The doors were cut from the 4X8 panel and a 2X4 frame added to each door
for re enforcement.
Each door is on a piano type hinge that runs the full length of the door.
The shed is three years old and the piano hinge is working well, and is
doing the job.
Yes. Exactly the same as what it has now. (Sizes below)
Currently it has three hinges per door of a lesser quality/strength
than the gate hinge link I posted.
Not water into the shed, water pooling on the shed doors themselves.
On the front cross pieces; decorative barn style ... typical 1x4 trim
around entirety of both doors and one "X" on lower part of each door.
The trim was never caulked and so the water runs along the panels and
behind the trim, causing the trim and doors, to rot.
I'm not ripping up any flooring, or tearing apart the door framing. No
need as all is in good shape. This is a standard kit shed, 10'x16',
and it came with all the trimmings ninteen years ago.
Door space is are 5'11" wide and 7'1" tall. So 5'11"/2 gives 71"
total, roughly 35.5" per door width. I figure, with better hinges and
hasp, new wood panels and a few 2x4's, total cost will be about $100.
I want to replace the doors with minimal cost, within reason of
keeping it around at least another ten years. Otherwise I can
rent-to-own a new, bigger and better one in that time frame and not
have any hands-on work to do myself. It includes a metal roof,
windows, more vents, etc., all dropped on site pre-built.
Ultimately that would cost 5-6 times my repair cost but I already have
three people who would buy my current shed and I would not would not
have to do any work myself. I know it sounds lazy but I have been
having major back, neck and hand issues this last year which are
getting worse and I don't know how much longer I can continue to do
10'x16' ... double doors ... 5'11" wide x 7'1" tall total size.
Roughly 35.5" width per door. Basic kit shed bought 19-20 yrs ago.
Sounds basically same as mine.
Exactly the same here.
Ours came with typical T-style hinges. Not uber cheap but not great.
Three hinges per door.
I thought about piano hinges but was informed (here as matter of fact)
that they are not great long term on outside sheds.
Our biggest problem with the doors has been the water behind trim
causing rot and hinge screws coming out causing us to move hinges to
keep door on and funtional. Bolting was recommended here and by others
and that sounded like the longer lasting approach.
I think a handful of people suggested piano hinges but most others
recommended bolting in hinges saying it would work better and last
longer. Since we've had to move the exsisting hinges three times to
keep the doors on, I'm not sure how well that would work on this shed.
Typically piano hinges are not suitable for out door weather. Tiny
hinge pins can quick rust if the hinge is exposed to weather. they
probably work well in some instances but are not really built for this
The first one looks like what I found at Lowe's but 1/3 the price. The
second is cheaper but if it's black, not sure that would fly. The
Stanley hinges are also bearing, zinc plated and look stronger than
that picture on Amazon shows. At least IMHO.
What I really would like to do but can't, at least not this year or
next, is to add on to the shed. Want to add another 6-8 feet in
length, separate that second section via wall, insulate and use a
smaller single door. That would let me turn it into a small workshop
that I can insulate and heat. I would then open up the wall on the
other end and but either a very large single door (current doorway is
5'11" so somewhere between 4 and 5 feet) or a rollup door. The larger
side would be used for storage as it is now. Right now I just need a
door fix that will, if necessary, last for several years should I not
be able to make the workshop happen.
On Sunday, October 12, 2014 12:49:25 PM UTC-5, Casper wrote:
Wish I were nearby. I'd come help. I enjoy arguing with work mates, that
kind of stuff. Yeah, we'd build an overhang over the doorway, keep that
water away, then build and hang a porch swing, also.... some place to sit a
nd think about next year's projects.
Just wondering here -
Build an A frame of sorts - stout and strong - place it and attach it
near the back wall. cut off the end of the house - and have a way
to handle it and move it backwards. Then build the open ends together.
That or make the back wall an inner wall - and strip off most of the
outer skin and support it such that it isn't a wall but an arch.
Maybe you want a wall with a door there. Maybe not.
Might want a new king beam along the ridge or splice in.
On Friday, October 10, 2014 8:53:17 AM UTC-7, Casper wrote:
The depicted hinge has two fingers /one finger interleave, so there's only ONE point
of pressure holding weight. Typical exterior doors have three/two interleave,
which means two points of pressure, and use three hinges.
Shed doors typically open outward, so the hinge will be out in weather, but
otherwise the requirements are similar (take the same wind/weight loads).
I'd think about upping the hinges to four from three, or using a different
design. And, I'd try mortising the hinges into the frame (so one set of screws is
protected from weather), even if the door connection is to be bolted-through-the-face.
Thankfully, no need for a permit where I live. All I need to do for a
new one is show a photo of the completed unit to our HOA for approval.
Since they approved the original without a blink, I suspect no real
difficulty in same for a replacement. Only right now I'd prefer to use
that money for other repairs, replacements and upgrades. /shrug
I do like the way you think. I certainly like the swing idea!
Help around here is tough. Seems no one in the family but one does any
DiY projects and right now he is working on his own deck and house in
preparation for his first child. Ergo my plan B creation/backup.
Train your mind to test every thought, ideology,
train of reasoning, and claim to truth.
Interesting point but not sure additional hinges are really necessary.
Current hinges are two/one interleave and three per door and it has
stayed hung 99% straight all these years.
The current hinges are hardly rusted at all. It's just the darn door.
It was never thought of to caulk the trim to prevent water seepage. I
should have known better and I let it get away from me. Still the rest
of the shed is in good condition except for a little on the bottom on
the long sides. Splash up has done a litte damage but I should be able
to repair that easily enough before repainting. Have thought about
running a trim board there too but not sure it's worth it and that
would also require caulking and be another potential water trap.
Even the hasp and lock show minimal signs of rust/age. I go out every
year and clean them up a bit with WD40 and it seems to have helped in
keeping things pretty clean and working smoothly.
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