I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash, I have a
1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?
3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from Scary
to a stone?
I tried them all and switched to a WorkSharp 3000 a couple of years back
... my chisel and plane blades have never been sharper, or easier to
maintain an edge.
Effective as scary sharp and so much less of a mess than water stones
(ugh ... nasty damn things!), or even oil stones.
I occasionally touch-up a chisel or plan blade with an Arkansas oil
stone (but only as a touch-up after the blade has been sharpened and
microbevel put on with the WS2000), just a matter of seconds, although a
leather strop works just as well.
I am thoroughly dissatisfied with my sharpening thus far. I have been
considering a WS3000, but you confused me - do you have a WS3000 or
WS2000, which I think is a much less capable version than the WS3000?
I've ordered some 8mm bits and guide bushings, cut and mounted it on a
base and have it all setup and ready to go as soon as they arrive, just
haven't had time to do anything other than other people's stuff. :)
I really do like the WS3000. You will go through all your tools, sharpen
everything, then back it goes in the box until the next time ... no
fuss, no muss.
On Sat, 10 Dec 2011 15:18:09 -0600, Swingman wrote:
I remember reading somewhere that a problem with horizontal wheel
grinders was that the edge didn't last as long because the scratches from
the grinder were parallel to the edge instead of perpendicular. Thus the
edge could flake off much easier.
I have no experience to either confirm or deny that theory, although it
does seem to make some sense. But the effect may be so small as to be
Have you noticed tools getting dull any quicker with the WS3000? Anyone
else here able to confirm or deny from experience?
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
Duh! The thought never crossed my mind. Maybe I should take up rocking
chair sitting instead of ww :-).
But if the whole wheel is exposed, as it is on the WS3000, I suspect the
natural tendency would be to use the nearest part.
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
With narrow tools (chisels, narrow plane blades), you feed the blade
bevel up through a guide against the _bottom_ of the horizontal disc.
In that case, the polishing pattern leaves slight swirls across the bevel,
such that they are not quite perpendicular to the sharpened edge.
I certainly haven't notice that the edges are any weaker.
Han, how do you sharpen your irons and why are you dissatisfied?
Have you read Leonard Lee's tome? It's a keeper, though I do several
things a bit different than he suggests. http://goo.gl/uayi5
Have you read the original Steve LaMantia treatise on Scary?
Find a local woodcarver who can show you, physically, what "truly
sharp" means. I didn't know that for far too many decades. A truly
sharp iron will actually cut into your nail when rested upon it
without any extra pressure. When you can sharpen an iron, rest it upon
your fingernail, tap it on the flat side, and it resists moving, then
raises a scraping, it's finally sharp. Anything less will skitter over
the surface of the nail very easily.
A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full description
of a happy state in this world.
-- John Locke
Larry, I've tried the scary sharp a bit and I have a set of expensive
sharpton stones. I also have a combo oilstone gizmo, and 2 very small
diamond honing plates (like 1x3"). I even went to an adult ed
woodworking class, but that was a very nice bunch of guys ad gals each
doing their own thing on the high school woodshop machines. No teaching
of sharpening. Some of these techniques got me a better edge than there
was originally, but either I haven't gotten the knack, or it is not for
me. I do have trouble getting things under the same angle from stroke
to stroke. I hope the WS3000 will help me get more consistency and will
work easier and faster than those things. If the WS3000 works for me,
maybe I can sell the sharpton stones to someone ...
Uh, Shapton stones, right? Yeah, someone'll buy 'em. Sharpton is
that Gnu Yawk bastard^H^H^H^H^Hptist minister who ran for Dem Pres in
Have wifey get Lee's sharpening book for you for Xmas, eh?
Do not let your fire go out, spark by irreplacable spark.
In the hopeless swamps of the not quite, the not yet, and
the not at all, do not let the hero in your soul perish
and leave only frustration for the life you deserved, but
never have been able to reach.
The world you desire can be won, it exists, it is real,
it is possible, it is yours.
-- Ayn Rand
Probably <grin>. As much as I dislike Al Sharpton, there is no need for
the language you used. Remember, I worked for some 35 years in New York
City, the last couple of decades going through metal detectors at the NY VA
at least once a day.
My bet is you are going to enjoy using it, you will sharpen every tool
in your shop the first day, and most will be still be sharp, with just a
bit of stropping, six month later.
I do not like to take the time to sharpen a tool (dislike it more than
sanding) and therefore with all other methods I often let sharpening go
much longer than was prudent. Since the WS3000 purchase, my tools have
never consistently been this sharp for this long. I would not trade the
WS3000 for all the Sharpton stones you could truck down here.
It simply works ... granted, basically all I've used it for is chisels
and plane irons,and I've had to finish up a corner chisel by hand on the
inside edges a time or two, but that would have been the case with other
Like all tools, I sure there are some things it won't do, and someone
will always find something lacking in any tool, but my highest accolade
remains: I would buy it again if I lost it.
Sounds like a machine tool sharpener is the way to go. Like you, I've
never liked havning to put in the time to sharpen tools, but I do
appreciate a tool when it's properly edged.
Now I'm considering buying a Tormek sharpener.
Han, with your shapton stones, were you taught by the japanese wood
If you were you can't miss. If not, I'll try to explain.
1st you need to have your bench lower than you think for freehand
instead of rubbing the iron back and forth which can lead to you rocking
the iron, you orient the iron so the width of the iron is parallel to
the length of the stone. Then you press on the iron at the bevel and get
the iron to its bevel. Now with your finger still holding pressure down
at the bottom grab the blade with your remaining thumb and other hand
and move the iron back and forth along it's width, This will give you a
sharp edge. When you are done take a few swipes with the blade up a
little higher for a micro bevel.
This works for me better than the width of the iron being oriented to
the short side of the stone. I find this method to be so simple and
tuneable. I would like to thank the guys at Japan Woodworking for
teaching this method... I am just so amazed how simple it is to sharpen
using this method, and how really sharp they get. No I don't have
Shapton stones, I have natural water stones, and it still works.
On 12/10/2011 9:05 PM, Han wrote:
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