Waterstone sharpening - wow!

Personally just "discovered" them ... and even though it is a messy affair, I can't believe I've let all these years go by without paying them much attention.

It was a David J. Marks episode, that I finally got around to transferring from DVR to DVD, that was the catalyst ... that, a dearth of sheet goods, no supplier's open today, and a yen to do something, anything, in the shop, despite the heat. (Actually, I trained for the heat yesterday afternoon by digging a few 3 foot deep post holes, in the sun, in Texas, in August - part of each through a foot of compacted, buried oyster shell - the 98 degree shop was cool today by comparison)

My chisels are shaving sharp with just a few minutes spent on each, and an old, el cheapo block plane that someone thought they were favoring me with, and that's been hanging around for years, was actually doing what a plane is supposed to do in about 30 minutes ... not quite the paper thin shavings that my Veritas and old Stanley's put out, but amazing for such a cheap tool.

I still don't like to sharpen, but this was almost enjoyable, and might even get better when I actually know what I'm doing.

Thus far I've got an 800, 4000, 6000, and a naguro for the fine.

... on the way to buy SWMBO a new cookie sheet to replace the one I stole from the kitchen.

Reply to
Swingman
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I just have a 1200/8000 combo waterstone and I've been pretty satisfied with what I can do with it. I recently got the new veritas guide and that made it a whole lot sweeter. I *almost* don't mind sharpening now. Now if someone could come up with a fast reliable way to flatten the back of a chisel, I would be happy.

Bob

Reply to
BillyBob

Snip of a bunch of stuff.

I cracked up laughing when I realized that it was you! When I read your name as the OP after reading your discovery of this new delight, I sprayed the screen. I'd thought your being the perfectionist and me having seen the quality of your work, how did he get by before now?? I found these stones about 14 years ago. Amazing how quietly the chisels sharpen to that kind of edge. Quite messy but keep them in a Tupperware container to catch the water and its a bit easier. Nothing like a mirror surface on the back of the irons and chisels. Well I soon tired of the whole affair but would not give up on water stones. Wait till you get your hands on a Tormek. Yeah...fast, less messy, expensive. LOL

Reply to
Leon

Flatten your chisel and plane irons on FLAT water stones. Really not a problem.

Reply to
Leon

Can you say "DMT"? I knew you could. For flattening, though, you could use a nice coarse set from

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. $12.99 or less on sale, which is often.

#36196-6VGA 3-pc 1x3" set $7.99 #36799-3VGA 3-pc 2x6" set $12.99 Ooh, here's a new one I hadn't seen until now:

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's a 2x6" 4-diamond-sided block with 200, 300, 400, and 600 grit plates on it. Cool. $14.99 One of these would be good for taking chips out of good irons before sharpening them on the 600 grit DMT and 1,200 grit Scary Paper(tm) before stropping.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Note that I said "Fast". I know I can get there with water stones, scary sharp, etc. but none of these is very fast for flattening.

Bob

Reply to
BillyBob

Bob,

With a 1200 it will take you a long time. Get a 200 grit water stone...it will show you how fast is fast. If you're not paying attention you could change the angle of the bevel pretty quick! :-)

Layne

Reply to
Layne

Swingman,

Spend a little more and get an 8000 stone. If you're amazed now wait till you hone on an 8000....in fact, I'd forego the 6000 and jump from

4000 to 8000.

My friend gave me a CRKT knife saying it doesn't get very sharp. I put it to a 4000 stone and it'll slice through a paper's edge. :-)

Layne

snip

Reply to
Layne

Continuous surface diamond plates are fast, I just got a DMT Diasharp 600 grit. Sharpening a knife takes about four to five strokes per side to gain a real beginning edge, I was happy with that. There are also the japanese Kanaban soft steel plates that you apply diamond grits to, those should be fast too I trust, but never tried yet.

Reply to
AAvK

Ahhh... Shapton ceramic compostite...Hello. This is the way to go with DMT Diamond 200 grit for flattening. Less mess and you don't have to soak them just use a spray then go to a Takenoko 8000. I could shave a rabbits testicles after working a blade with this group. Not that I've ever done that.

Reply to
rickluce

Yes, I knew 1200 was too fine and I've never tried it. I did flatten one chisel with 100 grit sandpaper on glass. It took forever. Would the 200 grit waterstone be significantly faster? I also saw the suggestion for an extra coarse diamond stone. Diamonds are reputed for speed, but not fine finish - for flattening that's ok. I guess I'll get out my wallet and try one of these options.

Bob

Reply to
BillyBob

What he said.

Just like sanding wood. if things are going too slowly, you're typically at too fine of a grit.

Barry

Reply to
Ba r r y

FWIW, I've found a coarse DMT diamond stone to be excellent at flattening waterstones. I like it better than loose abrasives, ceramic flattening plates, etc...

Barry

Reply to
Ba r r y

You got one? ... I'll be right over. ;)

Reply to
Swingman

LOL. What can I say, I'm a cautious man who stays away from the bleeding edge and I make damn sure technology works before I leap ... hell, it's only been a couple of years since we moved the outhouse inside.

... now, if I can just figure out how to get it to drain outside.

Reply to
Swingman

I've got the diasharp course 3" x 8" stone, it is still slow to flatten plane backs. I think an 80 grit drywall screen to be faster, then moving up the sequence.

After going to 180, I use my diasharp, then onto the Shaptons. Only takes a few seconds each after the 80 grit gets you flat. You have to be carefull with chisels so as to not dub the sides on the back, with the SS method.

Alan

Reply to
arw01

Yes I do..for about 4 years now. With all the attachments that you could get with it then. Let me know if you want to come over and use it. ;~)

Reply to
Leon

Drain? Just put a deep hole in the floor under it. LOL

Reply to
Leon

I've been using the King stones, through to the G-1 for quite a few years.

I keep the stones that aren't mounted to wood in a drywall bucket, so they are always wet. The S-1 and the G-1 don't need this but the more porous stones can take a bit of time to go from dry to useable, if you don't keep them soaked.

I have found that it is worth flattening these stones on some 600 wet or dry, laid on a piece of 1/2" float glass, to get them flat before use - and to flatten them again, when you are done.

I have a cedar board that I routed out to create a well for the stones to sit in. It helps to keep them from sliding around when you bear down on them during your figure eights. I clamp the board to the bench and have a go at them.

The use of the nagura can take some getting used to, in my experience. I find that rubbing it flat on one side, and making sure that the fine stone is flat, goes a long way towards bringing up a good even paste, and making the job go right.

Some guys will take the paste from one stone to the next finer one, but I've never been a fan of this. It seems to me that the iron should be cleaned before going on.

It is messy, but it ain't no messier than an oil stone, and your wife will holler a lost less about water stains than oil ones, I suspect.

BTW - please don't take that woman's kitchen implements no more, lessin' you want her to start borrying yer drill and a fair sized spade bit ta whip taters with.

(that's a bad road to start down -damhikt)

Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)

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(website)

Reply to
Tom Watson

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