Wonder if anyone can help me. My washer has recently developed a problem.
It does the whole cycle fine, except for the fast spin at the end. The water gushes out of the pipe at the back as normal, then the pump kicks in. All the water has gone, but the pump keeps on pumping. It will continue to do this for a few minutes, and then the machine finishes - having never started the final fast spin.
I replace the motor last year and have removed this and it looks fine. The brushes are still good. The pressure switch appears to work correctly (i blow up the pressire pipe and it clicks). The pressure tube is not blocked.
The drain pump does normally run throughout the spin cycle. The problem would seem to be lack of spin. If you said what the make/model was, someone might know if there's something in particular worth checking. It's not clear if just the final fast spin doesn't work, or if all spinning isn't working. Some W/M motors have different field windings for the top spin speed.
When it was working, did it ramp up to the 1300 RPM spin in the final spin cycle through lower spin speeds first? If so, is it still ramping up and then stopping instead of the top spin speed, or is it never turning at all?
To be honest, i'm not sure what it did when it was working ok.
Right now in it's current state, just before it _should_ start the fast spin, it is starting to spin slowly for about 5 seconds. Then it stops. Then nothing. (pump continues to pump away in the background though).
Looking back, i think this was the same sympton as last year (i replaced the motor and it fixed the problem). So, it looks like my washing machine enjoys blowing up motors. Maybe it's time to get a new washing machine? I spent £90 on a new motor last year and don't wanna spend £90 every year when i get a brand new washer for a £200 to £300 quid!
I'm not familiar with Hoover washing machines, but if it's like my Hotpoint, there's a separate field winding on the motor which is used only for the top spin speed. My guess is that one of the following has happened:
o Spin field winding burned out. o Conductor broken in the cable loom to the motor. o Controller is no longer supplying power to that winding, possibly due to failed contact or a blown triac (depending on what type of controller is used).
It should be possible to continuity test the windings to confirm if they are OK or dead. If the cable loom is faulty, you might be able to see some evidence (e.g. burned insulation). Tugging on each of the cables might reveal one which has no connection and comes apart, which would be an easy repair most likely. A failed controller or motor might be regarded as a write-off. I have repaired the controller in my Hotpoint (replacing a blown triac), but unless you're into electronics, that's not going to be a viable option.
Does it actually get to the end of the programme, or does the programmer knob stop before the end, possibly waiting for something that never happens?
I would do the following simple checks initially.
Check that the 'Creaseguard' button is electrically ok, and is not pressed in. Give the spin speed knob a few turns to exercise it, and perhaps set to a different speed. Put some dry clothes in the machine and see if the fast-spin-only programme works, (prog 7 on the AA230). Even try slowly stepping the programmer around by hand from prog 7, just in case it is stuck at one place.
Then take the motor out. First spin the motor by hand and check that the brushes do not move in and out. This would indicate that the commutator has been distorted, probably due to an overload. In that state the motor will do slower rpms but can be erratic at high speed.
Check continuity of the field winding and across the brushes. Both should be low resistance. Turn the motor when doing the brushes to check all commutator segments.
When putting the motor back in make sure that the multiway connector is fully home, with the plastic ears properly latched together. Make sure that all the back ends of the Fastons are lined up, and none of them have slid backwards in the connector housing.
Have a look at the very bottom of the machine and see if there is a printed circuit board with wires to the motor. If there is, take it out and look for dry soldered joints, especially under the relays.
This is a common problem with other Hoover models (WDM130, etc.) and the symptoms are exactly as you describe.
Thanks everyone for all your help. I'd already tried a few things suggested, but went through the bits i missed, and the problem was what Roger said, it was a dry joint under one of the relays on the PCB. My trusty solding iron sorted the problem out :)
You's have just saved me £200+ on buying a new washing machine!!
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